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Seek
16-05-2008, 08:20 AM
I see that a few people are looking but not leaving the information i think they want to see this instead.


Paving - step by step guide

A paved area is possibly the most rewarding construction added to any garden. It expands the liveable space of ones home and provides a zone for enhanced interaction with the surroundings.
Before delving into a paving job, first decide if you have the patience, skills and tools to carry out the job. If not, call a professional as there is nothing more frustrated than a badly laid paved area, except perhaps a bodgie retainer wall. Details for professionals are at the end.

Step 1 - prior preparation
Go to a landscape supply yard and select your pavers based on size, colour, price, availability, and paving pattern.
Also cost items such as road base, bedding sand, joint filling sand and concrete blend.
Calculate the area for paving taking considerable care with angles, curves and overall shape. If you need to pave anything beside squares and rectangles you may need to look at cutting pavers and also the appropriate tools.

Step 2 - clearing
Prepare site by clearing the foundation to a depth of 150mm. Remove all grass, dirt, rocks and roots. Compaction is essential therefore a plate compacter is recommended.

Step 3 - foundation
Add road base to a depth of 75mm. Compact this surface again with the plate compacter.

Step 4 - sand
Spread bedding sand to a depth of 30mm using a rake.

Step 5 - screeding
Screeding is a task that involves levelling the sand with the aid of rails that are set at the correct angle and depth to ensure the sand slopes away from the house to allow for water runoff.
Set string lines to desired depth and set screed rails accordingly. Use a long straight float or board to screed the sand.

Step 6 - laying
Lay pavers according to guiding string lines. Aim to leave a small gap (a few millimetres) between each paver as this is important for filling in with sand.
Avoid standing on pavers you have just laid. It is best to lay down a plank of timber to step and lean on.

Step 7 - cutting
Cutting pavers may be needed to tackle corners, angles and to fill in ‘holes’. Use a brick bolster, paver splitter or masonry saw. These can be hired.

Step 8 - edging
Edging or haunching is necessary to lock pavers into position. This implies adding concrete to the edges of the paved area.

Step 9 - filling
Spread joint filling sand or gap sand over the pavers with a broom to work it into the crevices.
For large areas use the plate compacter again over the area to work the sand in between the pavers.
For small areas, use a rubber mallet.

Step 10 - finishing
Finish off the job with a final sweep over the area with filling sand. Sweep off excess sand.

grasshopper
16-05-2008, 06:27 PM
got to learn how to spell it, before you can lay it. ;)

administrator
17-06-2008, 12:56 PM
Another good product from www.linkedge.com.au

geejay
19-06-2008, 05:20 PM
a base of cement with pavers cemented on top is used a lot in landscaping.raised pavers on cement is used for garden paths,pavers set above the pebbles to help stop pebbles "jumping up onto pavers.

PaulG
23-12-2012, 12:49 AM
This one's starting to do my head in. I'm quoting a job to pave a very irregular area, an irregular trapezoid/scalene triangle shaped space.

It's like a scalene triangle, 3 sides different lengths, but with one tip chopped off (so there's actually four sides). One side is parallel to the rear house wall at 9.05 metres. There's a small 1.35 metre section at right angles at one end to this. From the other end of that there's a 4.5 metre length along the existing angled path to the clothesline. From the end of this it's 7.4 metres back to the other end of the original 9.05 metre section.

Confused yet?

All I know is it's going to involve a lot of cutting of odd angles to make it work...The only right-angle I have is at the junction-end of the 9.05m and 1.35 metre sections.

fairdinkum
23-12-2012, 07:09 PM
What kind of pavers you using? We used to use the big concrete ones a lot (450 or 500 square from memory). Bigger ones are easier to work with I reckon. Less cutting. Hate those little brick size things!

fairdinkum
23-12-2012, 07:10 PM
The best paving of all and the cheapest is a stencilled slab! :)

PaulG
24-12-2012, 01:14 AM
Was thinking 400mm but now starting to think I'm going to sub-contract this one. I don't have a wet-saw, I don't have screeds, rails, wacka-packa etc etc. Was thinking of asking a landscaper I used to work for, if he'd go 50/50 or 60/40 (in his favour) to help me do the job but I just don't know.

PaulG
24-12-2012, 01:21 AM
The area I'm quoting is in red. The grey shading is the existing concrete/pathways. The cross hatched line with 3-metres on it is an alternative shape I may suggest to give me better angles to work with and still give a usable area.

5861

PaulG
24-12-2012, 01:23 AM
This might be quicker.


5862

AJD Mowing
24-12-2012, 05:50 AM
x2 No weeds :)

ian
24-12-2012, 06:06 AM
if the existing concrete paths are staying i would be more inclined to concrete the lot then spray the whole area to make it look the same, i think pavers next to existing concrete paths like that will look odd

fairdinkum
24-12-2012, 05:57 PM
This might be quicker.


5862
Lay the pavers out. Snap a chalk line and cut with a 9 inch grinder with a diamond blade...thats how we used to do it hehe. Lookin at the angle you'd probably get away with using a lot of the off cuts too.