View Full Version : Noisey brakes on cox

15-09-2008, 11:04 PM
Thought I'd start a new thread coz I didn't want to hijack the other cox one with all my problems

I've got one problem with my cox and that is noisey brakes. They squeal all the time right from the day I picked it up. I've had it back at the shop a few times but no joy there. They say it's vibration from the disc/plate that the brake band runs on. Cox isn't coming to the party in fixing it at the moment as they are probly gonna have to replace the whole rear axle I'm told? If they dont fix it soon I'm gonna hit them for a cone because I use reverse to slow me up at times coz the noise gets on my nerves.

Anyone else had this??

Cheers Rick

16-09-2008, 08:34 AM
I don't do ride on work so i'm not sure about the brakes set-up, but could you use the "Anti-Squeal" spray you get for car brakes ?

16-09-2008, 12:39 PM
holden head same here have a 17 hp and does that very thing with brakes although beacaue of the drive arrangement cox reckons its not a issue ,so they tell me.......... so i gues i use the reverse aspect at times...

18-11-2008, 10:39 PM
i love my cox mower,, but after i got a new cone its screeches when i use the pedal forward or backwards, my mower bloke told me that he comes across it alot,, its mainly while the cone is wearing in in my situation, i know a few people who have the bigger cox's and there abit heavier than the 32" but i think they use the same cone size... not sure if thats true or not but yeah i cant handle the sound mine makes,,, i am looking for a newer cox though 32" 16hp im after or something like that

19-11-2008, 06:44 PM
danz the cone shouldnt be screeching..we have 17 hp 32 and 13 32 and although the cones are the same it shouldnt scream...sometimes cox do put out faulty cones from time to time make sure he is a cox mechanic because they are tricky to install...although adjusting them from time to time is easy...
i would take it back or maybe ring cox technical area direct and let them know..the number is on there web page

20-11-2008, 10:03 PM
Thanks mate i will do that, hey is there much difference in your 17hp 32" than your 13 32" im looking to buy a new cox soon 16 hp or more what are you new ones like

21-11-2008, 10:11 PM
i bought a cox 13 32 about a year ago so far its been a great machine

21-11-2008, 10:56 PM
danz we have the new 17 hp great machine purrs along...... great on slopes and gives a good cut... more comfy with the good seat and even has a drink holder :laughing: for the cans of lemonade of course... if u do buy one make sure u get the limited diff as it gives a better turning circle...

22-11-2008, 12:28 AM
thanks geoff for the info it sounds good,, how much should i be lookin at price wise if dont mind me asking,,, i have a 32" 13hp one of the older steel bonnet ones which has been bloody fantastic as had a brand new motor and was hardly used,, but im lookin for something abit more comfy but will keep my old too,,, thanks for the replys

22-11-2008, 05:30 PM
i think the 17 hp is about 5500 but maybe a little cheaper , as i said make sure its not the live axcle one they are about 300 to 400 cheaper but u suffer with turning..the little 13 hp cox with the steel bonnet i reckon was the best ...tougher than the hilux :laughing: i got 1400 bucks private sale for that one ..so u might be best to sell that private rather than the mower guy ripping for the trade in..good luck mate with that...am looking at the zero turn cox at the moment ...need more info though

22-11-2008, 08:39 PM
yeah geoff im keeping the old steel bonnet one cause she's in good knick and does a great job its tough,,, i were just looking at something abit more updated and comfy so if i see a good deal in the new year i might get one,, hey i seen a zero turn(cox) on ebay at the moment but havent seen many around, thanks for all the feed back much appreciated mate

06-12-2008, 04:34 PM
Noisy brakes on Cox's is a pretty common problem. As a general rule they are an emergency brake only, in case you are mowing on a slope and your chain comes off. (You would be free-wheeling down the hill). Cox specify that you normally should use forward/reverse to slow yourself down (obviously not slamming it between the two). If the hill you are mowing is too steep and you need to use the brakes then chances are you aren't using the right mower for the job. I personally wouldn't mind my brakes sqeaking a little as long as they were working, especially if I'm mowing something steeper than what the mower was designed to do.

As for drive cones, Cox have had a lot of trouble with them since they had to remove the asbestos from them. The latest one has been out for a while now and it seems to be doing really well. If you are having trouble with noisy drive cones, make sure you replace it with a genuine cox one...they are a lot better than aftermarket ones. You are also better off getting a Cox dealer to do it as there is a knack to getting it right.

I am a mechanic and have worked in a Cox shop since day one. Brilliant machines, you jsut need to know what you are doing when it comes to replacing/dressing/adjustnig drive cones. I own an old steel bonnet stockman with a 13 honda 32" cut. It's a beast!

06-12-2008, 05:48 PM
GREASE MONKEY well put...couldnt agree more , our cox mechanic is by far better than a normal mech for cox..... they work on them all the time and know their stuff , like you being a cox mech.... we have found the latest cones getting far more hours and is a lot quieter than the after market one...we only got 50 hrs but the latest gen cox we are up to 150 hrs and still going strong

06-12-2008, 10:16 PM
thanks guys,, yeah noise has stopped now after about 10 hours use,,, yeah my steel bonnet has a 13hp techumse or whatever them motors are called and it mows thru anything since i change the belts last week,, all good,, thanks for the info guys ill keep all of it in mind if i have to replace another cone sometime,, cheers

06-12-2008, 10:19 PM
ive never ever used the brake once, it was the cone that was screeching as it was brand new and after market. but its all sweet at the moment touch grass

07-12-2008, 09:16 AM
Yes my 15-32 has noisey brakes now and then had it for around 4 years.Now and then i take the small r clip off the brake peddal push
the brake rod out turn it a few times to tighten the brake and put it back together takes 5min. They are a great littel mower i mulch a lot with mine

14-12-2008, 10:11 PM
Thanks for all the info you guy's have given me. My 17/32 is going great besides the brakes but I have learned not to use them much. I have just hit 50 hrs on mine and just adjusted the cone for the first time. The pedal got a bit loose so I thought it was time. Is there a manual availiable for these machines? I know you have said that the cones are better left to the pro's but I wouldn't mind doing it my self. I'm not a mechanic but have played around with cars alot, and just finished rebuilding the front and rear ends and the brakes on my FC Holden. It's gotta be easier to do a cone than that. I just enjoy doing stuff myself. Cheers RIck

22-12-2008, 09:55 PM
Adjusting the cone itself isn't hard at all, and there isn't really a problem doing it yourself...just a few things you need to know...

Whenever you buy a new mower cox supply you with two tin plates, roughly 1mm thick each with a kind of hook on the top. They tell you these are to hook over the layshaft (the shaft that the two big steel drive disks are on) and are to fit snuggly between the cone and the contact surface of the disks and that is the way you set the gap. I do it a little differently...

To start from scratch you need to know a few things...
* The two drive disks under your seat....the LHS is the reverse disk and the RHS is the forward disk.
* As your cone wears it gets smaller, resulting in more play in the drive pedal between where fwd and rvs grips, and the mower will drive slower the smaller the cone gets.

Loosen the four square bolts holding the disks to the layshaft and move the disks apart.

I always move the drive pedal to the position where I want it to be gripping and driving in reverse. (Normally so there is about 1/2 an inch clearance between the pedal and the footrest/kickboard thing.
Next move the reverse disk hard up against the drive cone and tighten the two square bolts. MAKE SURE WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THESE BOLTS THEY ARE TIGHTENING TO THE FLAT PART OF THE LAYSHAFT! (Otherwise good luck being able to move the disks agani haha)

To set the forward disk, make sure the reverse disk is already done and push the drive pedal into reverse so the cone is hard up against the disk. Slide the fwd drive disk hard up against the cone and then bring it back out (towards the right of the machine) approx 2mm. (Will differ on machines with more worn parts). Tighten the bolts on the forward disk.

Move the pedal between forwards and reverse and make sure that when the cone is in between the two disks (neutral) you can push the mower freely without the cone rubbing either disk.

Doing it this way will make the drive pedal on the right angle to suit you, give you not much play between fwd and rvs and will still have a neutral position.

Jeez that was an essay! HAHA!

Good luck!

22-12-2008, 10:02 PM
Oh yeah, there isn't a workshop manual as such...but the owners manuals have spare parts breakdowns and some very simple maintenance instructions, but nothing about step by step guides or anything like that.

Personally I don't really see the problem with changing your own drive cone, however if you do have a problem with a new cone that you have fitted yourself, I doubt that Cox would warrant the part. If you haven't had a problem with cones before and have been getting good life out of them, then I would say by all means give it a go...it's not that difficult...but if you are chewing cones to pieces in no time at all, then you would be best off getting the problems sorted out by a Cox mech.

Does anybody here own a New Era stockman?


They have some major dramas with this model when it was first released...dunno if you have heard about them or not but there is HEAPS of warranty upgrades that the dealers had to sort out...

Drive pedal replacement...not enough leverage on the cone and the machine wouldn't reverse up the smallest incline

Clutch replacement. They tried to make a new clutch setup to make the cones easier to change but turns out the cones weren't running true and wearing out. New style cones (with three allen key bolts holding it down have all been replaced with the old style single shaft)

Chassis stiffening plate

Idler pulley setup on the drive belt to stop the belt flapping around

Hose clamps on the steering box to stop the plastic gears flogging out

The chassis was riveted together and we've had some of them break so now all new models are welded.

Apparently they have sorted all these problems now, but they were a nightmare when they first came out.

If you have this model, make sure you check with your dealer to make sure these modifications have been done before its out of warranty.