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mowjoman
12-03-2009, 06:47 AM
:megaphone Whats the best way to sharpen hedge trimmer blades?
Is there a tool designed for this?
I've heard one fella say not to touch the edge but rather take blades appart and run a stone over the underside :i dunno: :confused:

ian
12-03-2009, 10:17 AM
do you mean get a professional to do it ? damn i posted this after 63 impala this time thing is so confusing :)

63impala
12-03-2009, 10:48 AM
Get a profenal to to it .

geoff
12-03-2009, 07:22 PM
always use a professional , not the mower shop man unless he has the right equipment and that means not the angle grinder on the bench trick ,use a sharpener man , that does it for a living they are too valuable to stuff up its not like a chain saw blade where u can sharpen with a round file three strokes on each blade

mowjoman
13-03-2009, 06:37 AM
Very good.
Thanks guys, will do.
:wave-hi:

Fred's mowing
13-03-2009, 08:28 PM
These days I seem to be doing hedge after hedge after hedge.
Its extremely important to make sure that the blades are also dead flat & straight, its easy enough to bend um hitting those nails & pieces of wire stiking out as u prune the ivy on those paling fences :( .
Also make sure they are adjusted properly, hold it up & look 4 daylight,they can be sharp as , but if they arnt tight & straight the finish will be iffy.
Cheers Dean.

geejay
13-03-2009, 09:41 PM
always use a professional , not the mower shop man unless he has the right equipment and that means not the angle grinder on the bench trick ,use a sharpener man , that does it for a living they are too valuable to stuff up its not like a chain saw blade where u can sharpen with a round file three strokes on each blade

copy that,over and out.........................

glassngrass
14-03-2009, 07:56 AM
Agreed with you Geoff - always use a professional , not the mower shop man ...use a sharpener man , that does it for a living they are too valuable to stuff up ...

administrator
14-03-2009, 08:00 PM
First you have to take apart the blade. Then, use solvent to clean any plant sap etc off the blades. After that check and see if the blades are bent, nicked,or damaged in any way .Use a flat hand file. Electric grinders will bugger the temper of the blade. Follow the SAME bevel that exists. only sharpen from outside edges of blade if you havent got the patience or the time get it done by the pros tool sharpening companies.
However, filing by hand can be very tough because it's a tedious job it may take you 30 to 45 minutes
Often when the hedge trimmer isn't working properly, it's may not be blunt , just got a lot of plant SAP dried in the blades

KEEP CLEAN AT ALL TIMES .

Or you could buy a Hedge trimmer sharpening station ah the tools the world has to offer

http://www1.westfalia.net/shops/gardening/hedge_trimmers/hedge_clippers/accessories/289771-hedge_trimmer_sharpening_station.htm

geejay
15-03-2009, 03:32 AM
to help reduce/elevate the effects of dryed plant sap jaming your blades one could spray a lanolin based oil on the blades before,during and after operation of machine.as part of a maintenance use a suitable brush diped in petrol to clean blades,spray with lanolin based oils to store.

Chris B
19-01-2012, 04:32 PM
Can anyone recommend a place that sharpens hedge trimmer blades in melbourne? preferably western suburbs

Fred's mowing
19-01-2012, 05:17 PM
Chris, Ace saw service in Braeside would do a good job 4 u, but its a fair way to travel.
Be a little weary of giving this to your local mowershop, they proly dont do that many.
U could take a file to it & proly get reasonable results.
The blade tolerences r just as important as the edge.
R the blades properly adjusted & totally straight?
Sorry I cant recomend anyone out west.
Cheers Fred.

St George
19-01-2012, 06:14 PM
Can anyone recommend a sharpener in Sydney preferably on the southeast side?

Redeye
19-01-2012, 08:13 PM
ask your local butchers who they use

HPM
19-01-2012, 08:24 PM
Try one of these. They look ok. I use one similar to this and it gives a very professional finish.
http://www.right-tool.com/grandualshar.html

Chris B
19-01-2012, 09:07 PM
Chris, Ace saw service in Braeside would do a good job 4 u, but its a fair way to travel.
Be a little weary of giving this to your local mowershop, they proly dont do that many.
U could take a file to it & proly get reasonable results.
The blade tolerences r just as important as the edge.
R the blades properly adjusted & totally straight?
Sorry I cant recomend anyone out west.
Cheers Fred.

Thanks Fred,
I was going to do myself but i read on here that someone pays just $25 for a professional sharpen.. sounds like a good investment to me!
what do they charge?
the blade tolerances seem fine but its just been hammered and the front half is in pretty bad shape from hitting walls / wires / dirt etc...:i dunno:

urbanpatch
19-01-2012, 09:28 PM
My local stihl dealer has a proper sharpener for hedging apparently.

Fred's mowing
19-01-2012, 09:39 PM
Thanks Fred,
I was going to do myself but i read on here that someone pays just $25 for a professional sharpen.. sounds like a good investment to me!
what do they charge?
the blade tolerances seem fine but its just been hammered and the front half is in pretty bad shape from hitting walls / wires / dirt etc...:i dunno:

Not sure what it cost, its been quite a few years sice they were last done there.
If you're keer, just give them a call.
Normally just take the file to mine.
I know what u mean about walls wire dirt etc.
Each time I buy a new one, & we have many of them, I swear it will only be used on fine conifer hedges.............yer right:rolleyes:
Cheers Fred.

South East Mowing
19-01-2012, 09:42 PM
Not sure what it cost, its been quite a few years sice they were last done there.
If you're keer, just give them a call.
Normally just take the file to mine.
I know what u mean about walls wire dirt etc.
Each time I buy a new one, & we have many of them, I swear it will only be used on fine conifer hedges.............yer right:rolleyes:
Cheers Fred.

Well I am not the only one then!:doh

South East Mowing
19-01-2012, 09:42 PM
My local stihl dealer has a proper sharpener for hedging apparently.

Yeah, his mechanic out the back!:p

PaulG
19-01-2012, 10:39 PM
My local stihl dealer has a proper sharpener for hedging apparently.

My Kwaka hedge trimmer's in the shop at the moment for a sharpen. Picking it up in the morning so will check what they're method or tool is.

Grassman177
20-01-2012, 05:48 AM
i would love one of those sharpeners, they are not too badly priced given my exchange rate. but i would also have to use a power converter.

i have adopted a decent method of touching them up after every use. we got a small angle virbrating sander that takes triangle sanding pads etc. we use the toughest stuff at a 36 grit metal paper/


this easily hones them back sharp and does not take long if you do it as regular maintenance. after done, we always coat with fluid film(lanolin)

Chris B
20-01-2012, 07:09 AM
with the hand sharpening has anyone had success keeping the blades assembled and lining the two sides up exactly and filing that way? or is it necessary to disassemble blades and do them separately ?

Grassman177
20-01-2012, 12:57 PM
at least on my hedgers, stihl and echo, you cant line them up cuz the teeth are dif sizes from top to bottom.

you dont have to take them apart though, which is what i used to do. too much work and too many parts to lose inside(particularly the stihl hs81)

jsut get the teeth spread apart and do one side, then move them again to do the other.

PaulG
20-01-2012, 02:16 PM
Picked up my hedger this morning and while I nearly fell over because of what they charged me for the service (wash filter, new spark plug, decarbon muffler and sharpen), the blades are better than new! The guy who sharpens them is very good at what he does.

They told me they use either a die grinder (they didn't tell me what sort of bit material though) or a grinding disc with a very fine wheel (not sure if they meant angle grinder or something else) but gees the blades are sharp.

Chris B
20-01-2012, 05:54 PM
im lucky on the stihl kombi hedger attachment and the hs81t the blades line up .. and also just remembered i have an air powered die grinder in the gargage :)

Chris B
20-01-2012, 05:55 PM
so what did they charge you Paul?

BCMS
21-01-2012, 07:46 AM
I sharpened mine the other night.
I just pulled the blades off the trimmer and ran over them with the angle grinder.
It came up great and is still holding a good edge after a full days trimming yesterday.
I just gave them a light touch up and maintained the factory angle.
They where very blunt when I started.
Cheers
Jake

PaulG
21-01-2012, 10:46 AM
so what did they charge you Paul?

When I sat down and thought about it, probably not too bad a price really, considering the good job done on the blades (and the fact that I didn't have time at the moment to do it).

1.5 hours labour was the killer, but it's on par (or a bit more) with what we charge so I shouldn't really worry.

$22.20 for Workshop consumables/environmental, spark plug, fuel 2 stroke including stabiliser, and Walbro fuel filter

$117.00 for Labour including remove blade holder cover (which I'm thinking of removing permanently anyway), & straighten / sharpen blades / checked and replaced fuel filter / replaced spark plug / removed muffler and decarboned / reassemble run & test.

$139.20 total..

But that $100+ I could save by doing it myself next time.

DavidS
30-01-2012, 07:08 AM
I get charged $25.00 to sharpen my hedger blades, I pull the unit apart and just take the blades in to the local Knife and Saw sharpener, usually have them back the next day. I have sharpened them myself when I had time. Used a flap disc on angle grinder and a flat file to finish off. Worked well but it would have cost me more in my labour than what I get charged for sharpening.

Grassman177
30-01-2012, 12:51 PM
time is money indeed.

Chris B
01-02-2012, 11:14 PM
ok so after a bit more research (and the fact i cant find a sharpening place nearby that i would trust).. here's what ive found:

courtesy of youtube so far the best technique seems to be this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=quGuMr8LrOk

im lucky enough to have one of these: http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-Air-Die-Grinder-6mm.aspx?pid=156476#Description
that came in the toolkit i got with the air compressor... havent even used it and thought i never would
and have found these to go with it :http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/160570757031?var=460020977372&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_2613wt_1163
just need to work out what grit and disc diameter to use and all sorted

apparently the alloy oxide abrasive on those discs is best for metal as it has a very low heat retention and low specific heat (thanks wikipedia)


i was a bit hesitant to go at it with the angle grinder as scared of the metal losing its hardness .. and was dreading doing it with a file

if anyone has any other info to add please do.
for those without an air compressor a dremel or similar tool can be used.

wonder if these are what most mower shops use?

Grassman177
02-02-2012, 01:02 PM
we use one of the battery op vibrating grinders with 36 grit. does well if you keep up on it and not get them too dull.

imoww
16-04-2012, 07:46 PM
How does it work?
Ive been looking on Youtube and found most people file or use a grinder on an angle to sharpen their blades...

St George
16-04-2012, 09:16 PM
I always sharpen them with a file and a few beers!just make sure the teeth are all aligned and use vice grips to hold them and file away.it usually only takes 4 or 5 file motions then move to the next one and so forth.

Grassman177
18-04-2012, 11:51 AM
it has a triangle shaped virating pad, we attach the velcro sanding discs to it, 36 grit, and almost use it like a file motion. but, it is fast and you dont slip and cut your finger!

Redeye
18-04-2012, 01:25 PM
I did mine today, first time, used a dremel with a small stone attachment. As you can see, the stone was very worn by the time I shot this with my camera. Pretty happy with the result, seems as sharp as new. I finished by using a perfectly flat oiled stone on the flat surface, did this on a saw bench table for a solid, flat surface.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkPUPUL7J2Y&context=C49a47d9ADvjVQa1PpcFO3R2CDLEEIvvsW9aYJdqfK kqznHJLEjFE=

Grassman177
19-04-2012, 12:33 PM
basically i do the same thing, but with the vibrating head(90 degrees to the machine, instead of like yours straight out the end) and a 36 grit disc. does not take as much metal off per time, so the blades last longer. also, i was looking for the fastest way, since i dont have time to get all serious and detailed into it.

South East Mowing
24-06-2012, 10:09 PM
I did mine today, first time, used a dremel with a small stone attachment. As you can see, the stone was very worn by the time I shot this with my camera. Pretty happy with the result, seems as sharp as new. I finished by using a perfectly flat oiled stone on the flat surface, did this on a saw bench table for a solid, flat surface.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkPUPUL7J2Y&context=C49a47d9ADvjVQa1PpcFO3R2CDLEEIvvsW9aYJdqfK kqznHJLEjFE=

I have used a dremmel in the past with stone attachment BUT this time I used a chainsaw sharpening stone (like these)http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-16-sharpening-stones-x5-12v-chainsaw-sharpener-/200661994931?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2eb8630db3, doesnt take heaps off like the last stone but takes longer. Better to touch them up occasionally with though

Redeye
25-06-2012, 12:57 PM
thanks John, just bought some

GrowCutMow
25-06-2012, 05:09 PM
I did mine today, first time, used a dremel with a small stone attachment. As you can see, the stone was very worn by the time I shot this with my camera. Pretty happy with the result, seems as sharp as new. I finished by using a perfectly flat oiled stone on the flat surface, did this on a saw bench table for a solid, flat surface.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkPUPUL7J2Y&context=C49a47d9ADvjVQa1PpcFO3R2CDLEEIvvsW9aYJdqfK kqznHJLEjFE=

Me too Redeye. I was inspired after reading your post. I used my chainsaw sharpener though.

steveo
07-08-2015, 09:23 AM
My blades appeared a bit loose on the hedger attachment so I tried loosening them (first attempt at his), cleaning it out with compressed air then tightening again, however I found that I was over tightening and this was causing the blades to seize. I eventually loosened them enough to get it working again but what's the trick in tensioning a hedger so the blades can slide snugly. Also how often does your hedger get jammed with little try twigs? This drives me nuts as sometimes it is quite difficult to unjam it.

Redeye
07-08-2015, 09:56 AM
l think the trick is to do one bolt at a time - tighten it, then back it off just enough for the blade to slide freely and lock it, then move to the bolt....time consuming as you need to keep starting up the machine but l think that's how l did it last time

brett73
07-08-2015, 11:07 AM
I tighten the BOLT until it is tight, then back it off 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Hold the bolt with a spanner and then tighten the nut, to lock the position. It takes a bit of getting right, but is easy once you've done it a few times.
The issue I had was the bolt would loosen off as I tightened the nut, it only needs to loosen a fraction. Doing a lot of diosma it would leave a horrible finish, so I adjusted it one day while shaping until I had it right.

Fred's mowing
07-08-2015, 11:44 AM
Tighten the bolts fully.
Tighten the nuts snuggly.
Back off the bolts until you can JUST move the washer.

This has always worked for me provided that the blades are dead straight. This is paramount.
I have never bothered with feeler gauges etc.

Chances are your cutter is jamming up with twigs etc more often if your blades aren't adjusted properly & you have a gap.
Carry some secateurs on you, they will easily clear just about anything you get jammed in there.

Grease the bolt slots regularly, not just spray lube.

Cheers Fred.

imoww
07-08-2015, 04:08 PM
I've got the Honda multi tool hedger attachment which self sharpens...
No need for sharpening

DavidS
08-08-2015, 02:32 PM
You should use a 10thou feeler gauge to setup gap between blades on a hedger. Yes we can all do a "that will do" but if you really want to do it right use the feeler gauges. Fred excepted as he does to many to need them anymore. Yes lubricate all parts not just the blades.
Imoww never heard of self sharpening hedger blades, post a link please so I can have a look.
Yes a dremel is the best for sharpening as it does not take as much off as a angle grinder.

imoww
09-08-2015, 11:40 AM
Sure thing.
Info everywhere on this attachment.
heres the first one i found.
http://www.mowerman2000.co.uk/product/versatool-hedgetrimmer-attachment_short/

You should use a 10thou feeler gauge to setup gap between blades on a hedger. Yes we can all do a "that will do" but if you really want to do it right use the feeler gauges. Fred excepted as he does to many to need them anymore. Yes lubricate all parts not just the blades.
Imoww never heard of self sharpening hedger blades, post a link please so I can have a look.
Yes a dremel is the best for sharpening as it does not take as much off as a angle grinder.

DavidS
11-08-2015, 10:04 AM
Yes lots of advertising info but no technical info on how it works to keep it sharp. I believe that it only good for the home person not for commercial use. It would have to have some sort of abrasive surface to keep the blades sharp, so what happens when they wear down? need to replace blades at what cost.
Only my thoughts on it, had a few self sharpening knives and stuff over the years and they had a abrasive sleeve to be inserted into to sharpen and some times you had to slide in and out a few times to sharpen, so how does the Honda blades get sharpened, anyone have a link to this information?

Bluey
11-08-2015, 03:25 PM
Try an air driven die grinder. Brilliant for this type of work

Fred's mowing
11-08-2015, 06:30 PM
Yep, Im with David on this.
They need to explain HOW it sharpens itself.
Not saying its a bad hedge cutter but, I think they're having a lend.
The shindaiwa's I use have extremely hardened blades & are super sharp.
Its amazing how long they will remain sharp with huge amounts of use including abuse!
The honda's are probably the same ?
Self sharpening my arse :shifty

No offence Matt.
Cheers Fred.

imoww
12-08-2015, 05:11 AM
yep. i wouldnt have a clue about how they "Self sharpen" but ive been running this attachment for over a year and half and the blades have never been touched. (Sharp as a knife still) I use it commercially also. Its commercial grade too.

Yep, Im with David on this.
They need to explain HOW it sharpens itself.
Not saying its a bad hedge cutter but, I think they're having a lend.
The shindaiwa's I use have extremely hardened blades & are super sharp.
Its amazing how long they will remain sharp with huge amounts of use including abuse!
The honda's are probably the same ?
Self sharpening my arse :shifty

No offence Matt.
Cheers Fred.

steveo
12-08-2015, 09:22 AM
one thing that may help a better cut finish is to clean the sap from the hedger blades with some degreaser.

BeetleJuice
12-08-2015, 11:11 AM
easiest and quickest way to sharpen,i prefer a dremel

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvFLD-6TI5Y&list=PLDKVpDfi7aMjmYiFFUz8g4rajM5JDZKkE

brett73
12-08-2015, 11:30 AM
I use the file method.
Had the hedger sharpened at the shop, when I put it in for a service and wasn't at all happy when I got it back, who ever sharpened it, had no control over the grinder and gouged the blades all over the place. Needless to say, I wont get it sharpened at the shop again.

steveo
12-08-2015, 04:19 PM
easiest and quickest way to sharpen,i prefer a dremel

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvFLD-6TI5Y&list=PLDKVpDfi7aMjmYiFFUz8g4rajM5JDZKkE

Interesting. i thought you had to pull them apart. I'll try the file method one day when its warm enough to drink a beer. When i got a pro to sharpen mine it came back with a few nicks and gouges in places. Probably used a grinder of some sort.

DavidS
12-08-2015, 05:20 PM
I am a Dremel person, have used angle grinder and it does make a mess. Dremel you can control the speed and a lot lighter and easier to handle, can even do while edger is still together.
Most shops use a angle grinder, have watch a few do them. Have seen some use a air die grinder to.

4 Gardens
12-08-2015, 06:56 PM
I'll try the file method one day when its warm enough to drink a beer.

Cmon steve, just because it snowed today you can still drink beer

steveo
13-08-2015, 05:35 PM
Cmon steve, just because it snowed today you can still drink beer

That is true. Was watching the snow/rain/sleet falling from my lounge yesterday thinking I'm not going out in that, it was windy too. Then I see over the road the lunchtime office workers jogging up the street in nothing but shorts and t shirts. I couldn't believe it, and they were older then me some of em.

Cranbourne Lawnmowing
13-08-2015, 09:45 PM
Best way to sharpen hedge trimmer blades is to take them apart and run the flat side over a belt sander . Just need to do it regular enough so that your not taking half the material away. Put back together and set gap at 10 thou.

Btw a belt sander might seem expensive but you wont regret it once you have one and no I dont have one but a mate does . Very handy piece of equipment .

DavidS
16-08-2015, 06:28 PM
Yes I have used the linisher to do that but only when I have hit hidden star pickets, this has tendency to bend and blunt blades, thats when I pull apart and do with the linisher. Linisher also comes in handy to take lips off you chainsaw bar, light touch up on each side and the bar is a good as new. Most service centres do this when you out you saw into be serviced.

steveo
27-08-2015, 06:08 PM
today I notice a hedger blade nut and bolt had worked its way out and got lost. Got some replacements nuts and bolts and replaced all the nylex nuts. Also sharpened hedger with angle grinder as the file method was way too slow, was happy with the sharpening result however still not happy with nut and bolt tightness. i just can not get the knack, it either too tight or I then worry its too loose. I think I'll try the feeler gauge method next.

steveo
27-08-2015, 06:16 PM
You should use a 10thou feeler gauge to setup gap between blades on a hedger. Yes we can all do a "that will do" but if you really want to do it right use the feeler gauges. Fred excepted as he does to many to need them anymore. Yes lubricate all parts not just the blades.
Imoww never heard of self sharpening hedger blades, post a link please so I can have a look.
Yes a dremel is the best for sharpening as it does not take as much off as a angle grinder.

So with a feeler gauge, how much tension is applied to the bolt and how much tension is applied to the nut? Would there need to be some slack on both sides? If the bolt is screwed in too tight wouldn't it still jam the blades even though the gap is correct?

steveo
27-08-2015, 06:45 PM
when all else fails read the manual, instructions for this hedger as follows

- release nut
- tighten screw lightly until resistance is felt. Then back off screw a quarter to half a turn
- hold screw in place with screwdriver and tighten nut
- lubricate with a few drops of oil
- start engine and run for a minute
- stop engine, touch blades, blades should be warm if blades are too hot to be touched release screws for another quarter to half a turn.

BSD
27-08-2015, 08:58 PM
Well nothings wrong with just pulling apart and running a lubed stone along them.

Cranbourne Lawnmowing
28-08-2015, 11:11 PM
when all else fails read the manual, instructions for this hedger as follows

- release nut
- tighten screw lightly until resistance is felt. Then back off screw a quarter to half a turn
- hold screw in place with screwdriver and tighten nut
- lubricate with a few drops of oil
- start engine and run for a minute
- stop engine, touch blades, blades should be warm if blades are too hot to be touched release screws for another quarter to half a turn.

Like! I always make sure I can just move the feeler guage comfortable back and forth. This hedge was done straight after . Lucky if it's been done once every 2 two years since they were planted. In my street and now they will get get done twice a year . 84818482

steveo
19-02-2017, 09:01 PM
Some hedge trimmers have cutting edges on the top and bottom blades whereby some only have cutting edges on either the top or the bottom blade.

I have always had hedgers with dual cutting edges. Are the ones with the single cutting edge better suited to anything in particular or is just a way of reducing the cost.

I'm hoping these two diagrams might show the differences between the two. 90179018