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holdenhead
24-04-2009, 02:14 AM
Hi all,

I took my Cox ride on in to the mower shop about 4 weeks ago coz it did not want to run. I service and fix most things that go on but suspected blocked fuel lines/carby. Thought it would be much quicker and easier to get the mower shop to fix it. I dropped it off and made sure I told them not to touch the throttle lever coz the cable broke and I did not have a chance to fix it. (I had the cable at home) I left the shop and 20 mins later I get a phone call to tell me the lever is broken. I tell them I'll fix the lever and just do the fuel blockage. I go back next morning to pick it up. They changed filter and plug (they were only 10 hours old) did a temperary fix on the lever. I'm told it's running fine. Get to the next job 40 mins drive away and after mowing for 10 mins it's doing the same thing. I push mow the rest of the lawn leave the other 2 lawns in the street and take it back. Drop mower off, next day come back to pick it up. They replace throttle lever coz they said it was bent but is covered by warranty. They tell me it's the safety switch under the seat?? They cant legally disconect it and tell me to do it. I go home bypass the safety switch and head off again. 10 Mins mowing again and it's still coughing and spitting, just makes it up the ramps onto the ute. Back to the mower shop. I got the mower off the ute and start it up and leave it running until it does it's thing then show them. "O' it wasn't doing that before, I think it's got a fuel problem" they said. Finally after picking it up again the next day it's running with no issues.

Yesterday I got my bill. $467!!
They charged me for Filter and Plug
Temperary fix of throttle $57!!!!
They even charged a quote fee for telling me it was the saftey switch.
Replace throttle lever (have to sort that bit out)
and clean fuel lines and carby clean $86

Once this bill is sorted I wont be back there again, Not Happy!!

Sorry for the whinge but I feel much better now
Anyone else have simular probs?

Cheers Rick

administrator
24-04-2009, 09:01 AM
This goes on all around the country

SouthCoast Walker
24-04-2009, 08:45 PM
Thats why I do 100% of my repairs myself. Only get warranty work done.

Found the biggest problem with getting work of any type done is people just don't listen to what you are telling them.

BLACK BEAR
25-04-2009, 12:12 AM
yes after several opportunistic repairs from shops i specifically ask them to give me a copy of the repair slip with my wording on what i think the prob may be, what i have done to it and what not to do, call me if repairs will be over a nominated price & plz return all parts etc.
They know why i do this now as i told them previously i was pissed with how they did things- walked out and only went back 12 months later. I would not hesitate to walk out of the shop with my gear and not pay for the work done if it was not done as i asked, or they do something i do not want, or they are simply opportunistic!
MAKE SURE THE REPAIR DOCKET STATES WHAT YOU WANT IT TO SAY OR FIND ANOTHER SHOP - i looked for others but these guys were the best so this is now my way.

geejay
25-04-2009, 02:57 PM
Thats why I do 100% of my repairs myself. Only get warranty work done.

Found the biggest problem with getting work of any type done is people just don't listen to what you are telling them.

only way, 100% ya self.

greasemonkey
27-04-2009, 08:38 PM
This sort of stuff is common unfortunately.

Personally with my repairs I ask the customer what the machine is doing. Before I do anything I make sure it has fuel and check the oil. Then I go and test it in the paddock until it buggers up. This is just so I can hear for myself what the machine is doing, rather than taking somebody elses word on it. (You won't believe how hopeless some people are...to the point where they can't tell you whether a drive belt or cutter belt is broken. They can't even tell me whether it drives or not!)

With engine repairs I always normally change the spark plug first because its a quick easy problem eliminator and most people never service equipment. (If a customer tells me they have changed it first I don't)

There are a lot of times when other problems come up that the customer didn't know about.

I had a guy with a McCulloch ride on that was running rough. The air filter was blocked. I changed the filter and pre-cleaner , spark plug (it was BLACK, from the blocked filter), and I also changed the oil. He had obviously been running it with a blocked filter and it had been burning oil as it was black and very low.

Once I got the engine running right I had done everything the customer asked for. I engaged the blades to make sure everything ran right and there a big vibration. The right hand blade was bent down on a 90 degree angle on one side. (He had run into something) The spindle housing was cracked as well.

So what was really a blocked air filter turned into a couple of hundred dollar job needing blades and a spindle. I get abused for this sort of thing all the time (even if I ring a customer and tell them before I do anything extra that they didn't originally ask for)

Can't win haha!

geoff
27-04-2009, 10:31 PM
greasemonkey well put......just a short one is the main drive belt on the cox new era easy to change ????

holdenhead
27-04-2009, 11:49 PM
Hi all, I have another shop I have been using and they are great, the only problem they have its a small shop and they dont have everything I need in stock when I need it.

I do almost all repairs myself but no longer have an aircompressor as mine blew up, (it's a bit hard to flush out the fuel system without one) the thing that I am most annoyed about is these guys know me quite well and know that I do my own maintainance as I buy all my spares off them. I even brought the new throttle cable off them a week before I took the mower in for the running problems (I had not had a chance to put it in) and they replaced it with a new one.

The last time I had my machine in the shop was when it only had about 8 hours on it and I needed to get the noisey brakes looked at (that still aren't fixed) they did my first service which was free while it was in there and replaced the blades and gave me a bill for $47 or something for the blade replacment?? They didn't even have the old blades to show me. No wonder the have a couple of nice big fancy mower shops!!

Cheers Rick

greasemonkey
28-04-2009, 07:11 AM
Niosy brakes on the Cox's are a bit of a pain in the arse. They normally always squeak a little from new. I've spoken to Cox about it and it's pretty much a 'nature of the beast' thing and they say to use the fwd/rvs pedal to slow yourself down and that the foot brake is 'emergency only' in case a chain or something comes off.

Drive belt on the new error is pretty straight forward. Loosen the four engine bolts and slide the engine back on the slotted holes to take the tension off it. You'll have to take the cutter belt off the back pulley on the clutch. Off the top of my head you may need to loosen the drive disks and spread them apart...and the rod that goes into the front of the clutch to move it left and right has to come out so you can get the drive belt past the arm on the clutch. I think that's all there is to it.

I try to keep most parts in stock for machines we sell (cox and hustler) I don't keep many spares from other brands as there are that many different belts its not funny. If I have a customer that goes through a lot of things I normally get a few in.

When we do a first service we don't charge for anything...not even the oil...but we won't do a first service for free if its done more than say 15-20 hours (supposed to be done at 5) or outside the first month of ownership...unless they've spoken to us about it. Blades aren't changed in the first service unless they are buggered...we'll charge for that...(but not that much haha) blades are 17 i think and i normally charge min labour with is 15.

geoff
03-05-2009, 05:31 PM
I reckon if David has hes corner ( very good stuff ) a really good corner would be one for Greasemonkey..knowledge of repairs and equipment is the very best..all posts from him have been backed up by fact..advice to me has been excellant.......

Rob@Borlorac
04-05-2009, 05:39 PM
I dont like the idea of disconnecting safety devices as said in first post.

Redeye
05-05-2009, 02:20 PM
First thing I did on my Cox was disconnect the under seat cutout switch-pain in the a--e otherwise.

phaedo
05-05-2009, 03:08 PM
First thing I did on my Cox was disconnect the under seat cutout switch-pain in the a--e otherwise.
Thought the switch should have been unnoticeable when sitting on the seat, buess you got the one with the dodgy spring in it :D

greasemonkey
06-05-2009, 04:28 PM
The switches can be a bit of a pain if you are mowing really bumpy ground and your bum keeps coming off the seat. In the shop we aren't allowed to disconnect the switches.

mowjoman
06-05-2009, 05:36 PM
G'Day Greasemonkey,
Mate your probably the ideal bloke to ask about this.....
All the talk earlier about spindle bearings has got me wondering if I should consider changing my bearings before they go. I've got 800hrs on my JD ZTR and still has original bearings. I grease them every 20 hrs and ol' mate down at the dealer reckons I'll get 1000hrs outa them but what worries me is the damage (if any :i dunno: ) could be done to the housing etc if they go on me suddenly.

Cheers mate :wave-hi:

greasemonkey
08-05-2009, 12:21 PM
Hey mate,

With normal wear and tear the bearings normally get a bit of a grumble up before they let go...one way to tell if they are getting noisy is to take off the cutter belt and spin the spindles. If there is any grumbling noise or play in the bearings then definately replace them. If they are quiet and don't move around or anything, chances are you'll be pretty safe. The fact that you grease them so often is awesome and is definately why you have gotten such good life out of them, so keep that up!

If the bearings are a little noisy it won't take long for them to get worse, so change them asap. If they do let go you can destroy spindle shafts and housings. Normally you can hear a change in the noise of the cutting deck when bearings start to go.

geoff1969
08-05-2009, 03:04 PM
Hi all,

I took my Cox ride on in to the mower shop about 4 weeks ago coz it did not want to run. I service and fix most things that go on but suspected blocked fuel lines/carby. Thought it would be much quicker and easier to get the mower shop to fix it. I dropped it off and made sure I told them not to touch the throttle lever coz the cable broke and I did not have a chance to fix it. (I had the cable at home) I left the shop and 20 mins later I get a phone call to tell me the lever is broken. I tell them I'll fix the lever and just do the fuel blockage. I go back next morning to pick it up. They changed filter and plug (they were only 10 hours old) did a temperary fix on the lever. I'm told it's running fine. Get to the next job 40 mins drive away and after mowing for 10 mins it's doing the same thing. I push mow the rest of the lawn leave the other 2 lawns in the street and take it back. Drop mower off, next day come back to pick it up. They replace throttle lever coz they said it was bent but is covered by warranty. They tell me it's the safety switch under the seat?? They cant legally disconect it and tell me to do it. I go home bypass the safety switch and head off again. 10 Mins mowing again and it's still coughing and spitting, just makes it up the ramps onto the ute. Back to the mower shop. I got the mower off the ute and start it up and leave it running until it does it's thing then show them. "O' it wasn't doing that before, I think it's got a fuel problem" they said. Finally after picking it up again the next day it's running with no issues.

Yesterday I got my bill. $467!!
They charged me for Filter and Plug
Temperary fix of throttle $57!!!!
They even charged a quote fee for telling me it was the saftey switch.
Replace throttle lever (have to sort that bit out)
and clean fuel lines and carby clean $86

Once this bill is sorted I wont be back there again, Not Happy!!

Sorry for the whinge but I feel much better now
Anyone else have simular probs?

Cheers Rick
i wouldnt have paid the bill in full especialy for the work that was carried out when thay where told not to . very hard to find good mechanics or fitters , and as for the shops there running a business and every dollar thay can add onto a bill its more for them .

geoff
08-05-2009, 05:37 PM
greasemonkey , any thoughts on mower belts , the branded ones are becooming more expensive and the availablity sometimes becomes a problem..There was a place in dandenong ( not there now ) where the sold belts for much cheaper price and always had the product...they seemed to work well , the quality was ok..

mowjoman
08-05-2009, 07:01 PM
Thanks heaps for that greasemonkey, your a good egg. I'll do that tomorrow and continue frequently. :wave-hi:

greasemonkey
08-05-2009, 08:59 PM
No worries!

As for belts, it really depends on the application. You can buy cheap belts in standard A and B sections from a lot of places and there isn't anything wrong with them. I use belts from Gripskes as they are around 1/4 of the price of brands such as Gates. Cox's are great for this as there is only two pulleys, there aren't any really sharp turns or idler pulleys that the belt has to run on its back over.

For other machines that require idler tension pulleys and the like, I really reccomend using Kevlar belts. They will last a lot longer than anything else although they can be pricey. OEM belts can be absolutely rediculous in price so I would hunt around at belt/bearing shops for one. Even if you buy an original belt the first time around and before you put it on take it to one of those places and get them to match it up. Chances are you will get it cheaper.

tree beard
08-05-2009, 11:57 PM
Hi Grease monkey.

Would you have any idea on a good supplier of mower blades that are after market? I have Toros? Would be great to find one online.. :i dunno:

ian
09-05-2009, 12:31 AM
try the indy shop or http://www.asproducts.com.au/

administrator
09-05-2009, 09:34 AM
For Belts cbc bearings and companies such as these supply the mower shops so why would you buy belts from mower shops they just purchase and add 200 per cent .

greasemonkey
09-05-2009, 09:57 AM
They don't all get parts through CBC. CBC can actually be quite pricey themselves and there are other bearing places around that are cheaper. We got a lot of belts and bearings through Gripskes and they are a lot cheaper than CBC. I would rather put CBC bearings in commercial machines, but for little domestic machines it doesn't hurt to use cheaper parts, especially if the customer doesn't want to spend much on the machine.

As for blades, your best bet would be trying that ASP site. We buy a lot of blades through them, and most of our contractors were going to ASP directly. We have won a few back because shops get a bigger discount than the end user. We basically match the price of ASP and save them a half hour trip there to pick them up :P. We make bugger all out of the blades, but the slight margain we do get, makes it worthwile.

I would buy a few blades from ASP, then take the invoice to your dealer and see if they can match/beat that price.

SouthCoast Walker
09-05-2009, 05:25 PM
Yeah bearings have a massive mark up % for some reason. I get on pretty well with one of the guys at my local industrial supplies shop and he cuts massive amounts off the list price for me. :cool:

holdenhead
13-06-2009, 10:41 PM
Hi Greasemonkey, Do you know if there is a workshop manual avaliable for cox? The cone on mine is making some noises at the moment. I adjusted the plates up the other day and since then it has been making this noise. I dont have any adjuster plates so I have been just guessing. My machine has done 85 hrs. Doesn't seem like alot of hrs to go through a set of cones?? I've heard of people getting 150-200hrs. Not sure how true this is though. There still looks to be a bit of meat on it but I dont know how far they can be adjusted. Any advise would be appreciated.

Another thing is I have been greasing the front stub axles but how do I get grease into the bearings in the deck and the rear axle?

Cheers Rick

greasemonkey
17-06-2009, 11:51 AM
I just replied to the other thread you posted this is so check it out...also as far as I know there is no workshop manual available for the Cox, only parts breakdowns. Have a look at the other thread I replied in and let me know how you go.