PDA

View Full Version : ztr service



BLACK BEAR
04-07-2010, 08:28 PM
Beside the proper filter is there anything particular you need to do when changing hydrostatic transmission fluid on a dixon ztr. Beside the Dixon 15w-50 what is a good quality oil to use for normal operating temperatures? I want to get away from OEM if I can as they can be hard to get at a reasonable price.
:i dunno:
What is a traction drive idler adjustment??
And other that deck belt adjustments, what should be checked on the deck?

aaron
04-07-2010, 09:32 PM
How many hours has it got on it?

I personaly over maintain my mower, so if it were me, id lift all the grease nipples and look for telltale signs of water ingress in to the greese.

BLACK BEAR
05-07-2010, 09:34 PM
Low hours only approx. 150

aaron
05-07-2010, 11:08 PM
Wow, does the service schedule really say to service the transmision already? If so, how much oil does it hold?

BLACK BEAR
07-07-2010, 03:53 PM
100 break in then every 500!

aaron
07-07-2010, 10:20 PM
Oh yeah.. a break in service, that makes sence. I was concerned because changing the oil in my front mower is very expensive, but maybe the ZTR's have a smaller amount of oil.

Id just go for a fairly well known brand name oil.

As for the deck, check for cracks. If you find one (doubt it) Get it welded now. Make sure if someone welds it, they drill a hole where the crack ends so it stops it from spreading after its welded.


Hows the mower been treating you?

BLACK BEAR
07-07-2010, 11:06 PM
Mower has been good, no probs yet. Just need to spend time to learn how to service these things myself just as i did with all the other mowing gear!
What is a traction drive idler adjustment??

South East Mowing
02-12-2010, 07:22 PM
Have a few problems with a pulley where I noticed the top bolt was loose(1st pic) and underneath where the blade connected to the shaft had a sleeve with 3 small holes loose also. Here are the pics. Do I just take it all off and inspect - easy to do or not? and can I just replace if needed. ALL NEW TO THIS:doh any help appreciated before taking in to shop.

edbeek
02-12-2010, 10:14 PM
I'd take the belt off and check for any play in the shaft, side to side and up and down. Give the blade a spin and listen for any rumbles.
The bottom of the pulley looks very close to the flange, especially the flange bolt on the right hand side. Could be an optical illusion. Do the other pulleys have the same clearance?

Mick
02-12-2010, 10:56 PM
I agree with edbeek, take belt off, leaving blade on, and feel for play. There should be next to none. Good call on the listening for rumbles.

That first pic looks like its had a deck driven blower (catcher) with the extra pulley on top. Unless your going to use a catcher there probably isnt any need for it. I dont know how its set up but I would take it off or replace getting it back to standard.

If the bolt keeps coming loose you may want to try some loctite.

Do you have the owners manual. You may be able to download one here... http://lawnandgarden.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/dixon/dixon_lawn_mower_product_list.html

If you look at page 12, there is a break down of a spindle, Id guess yours would be the same. You should be able to remove that top pulley if you like. It shows the keys etc... http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/XOUS/XOUS2007/XOUS2007_O0709002.pdf

South East Mowing
04-12-2010, 08:39 AM
Hi Mick, will get into it this arvo, got a few jobs to do before that.
On the second pic do you know what that thing I marked with XX is?? It is also loose but firm on the other shaft.

edbeek
04-12-2010, 09:20 AM
Looks like a dust cap to keep major rubbish away from the bearings.
I'm thinking that that shaft has dropped down in the housing. You can check that by putting a straight edge across the 3 blades and see if that one is lower.
If it is, maybe a circlip or whatever retains the shaft has let go. Maybe a top bearing has collapsed. Just guessing here.
A parts manual with exploded views would be handy when you get a good look at it.

Mick
04-12-2010, 09:38 AM
Well, Im not sure if this is your deck but from what I can see its called a "Spindle Cap" #35.
I would just try tapping it back on. Id say the hole in it is so you can pry it off, but I cant be completely sure.

South East Mowing
04-12-2010, 12:21 PM
thanks again guys, will be having a look after i get my garden finished this arvo!:eek:

danz
04-12-2010, 03:48 PM
G'day guys instead of me starting a new thread i might sneak under this one since it is ZTR related i am wondering do you guys know any shops in Vic that would stock a Cub Cadet Pto electric Clutch? mine is f$#%ed and i really can't wait 2 weeks for a mob to send one out from USA(but most probably will have to) since i am here usaully when i service my bit of junk i usually changed spark plug,air filter,change oil and whack a new oil filter on if it's been awhile, grease all the nipples the ones on spindles,wheels, etc and give a wash and look over it for any loose bolts or changes...

big_ed92
04-12-2010, 04:17 PM
now that i see it i can help out John :P firstly with the loose bolt unscrew it fully and if the pully is not flush with the the top of the shaft get a soft pine wood block about 50mm thick i over the pully and EVENLY tap it in take great care as one wrong blow will crack the pully then loctite the bolt screw it in by hand and use a impact wrench should never come loose then and this should pull the shaft up that fraction of a inch and stop the play that the collar has i think it will atleast give that a try

big_ed92
04-12-2010, 04:18 PM
forgot to add put a wood block under the blade a bit bigger so the whole spindle assembly sits on the that way u will be able to tap it in from the top

danz
04-12-2010, 04:29 PM
Haven't got a pto for a cub cadet handy have ya big Ed?

big_ed92
04-12-2010, 04:34 PM
try thease guys danz

http://www.outdoorking.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=645&zenid=buulkmb69ek288raha2s29c876

danz
04-12-2010, 04:54 PM
Thanks Big Ed i'll have a look now

danz
04-12-2010, 05:21 PM
Christ there not cheap i might give them a ring tomorrow thanks again Ed

South East Mowing
04-12-2010, 05:24 PM
forgot to add put a wood block under the blade a bit bigger so the whole spindle assembly sits on the that way u will be able to tap it in from the top

Thanks for all your help, Mick, edbeek & big ed! SO EASY when you have the "know how". Checked everything - no play in anything but the shaft had dropped a little. I put soft timber underneath as ed said and lightly lowered the raised ztr onto it pushing it up into its place, then loctite on bolt and all done.
I do all my basic maintenance but really only started to play with engines, lawnmowers etc in the last 6-7 yrs. A little hesitant with the ztr because its the 1st one - time and a little playing around with it should fix that with help of guys like you! cheers John
Saves trying to use the self drive on those big blocks now-saves me heaps!!

edbeek
16-01-2013, 04:24 PM
Just revive this old thread to tell you my blade spindle story.

My Gravely has sealed spindles with supposedly 3 yr warranty. Last year, with 450 odd hrs on it, one spindle had some play in it and the other 2 were getting hot.
They told me at the time that they were throw away parts as they were almost impossible to pull apart without smashing the housing, so I took them in hoping to get 3 new assemblies under warranty.

Long story short, they gave me one under warranty(one had a damaged part), and they magically got the other 2 apart and put new bearings in them. Then charged me about $400 for the job.
So now @ 700 hrs same problem. 1 has up/down movement and the other 2 are getting hot bottom bearings. No chance of getting any warranty (even though it is still under 3 yrs old) so I thought I'd have a go at one myself.
After making up a couple of tools it came apart easily.
As it's the bottom bearing that seems to be the problem, I removed the inside seal of that bearing and filled the housing with grease. Hopefully that will keep it lubricated.
1 down, 2 to go.

So $70 for 2 bearings vs $200/spindle for the shop to do it or $320/ spindle for new spindles.
Hopefully I can sell the thing before I have to do them again.

Mick
16-01-2013, 05:40 PM
Sealed spindles are, or should be serviceable if nothings actually worn. At least now you know what the go is! I wonder why they are failing though?
That SZ I was trying to sell ya (sold recently) had original sealed spindles. It had 900 odd hrs!

edbeek
16-01-2013, 06:01 PM
It looks like the seals on the bearings are failing Mick, and letting dust in.(they are a sealed roller bearing top & bottom. The originals were chinese no-name bearings and the ones the shop put in were FYH. I don't know if I've seen them before. I put in NTN bearings. But now I know it's not a major to change them, it's not so bad

See, you could have loaned me the old sz for a few months.:) I wouldn't have run the clock up too much. I think I've only done about 30 hours on mine since the start of winter. :(

Mick
16-01-2013, 06:17 PM
See, you could have loaned me the old sz for a few months.:) I wouldn't have run the clock up too much. I think I've only done about 30 hours on mine since the start of winter. :(

Been a tough season thats for sure! My "new" SZ has around 250hrs in close to 12 mths! Thats about 100hrs less than it should have!

What are you going to get next? Or have you already bought something?

edbeek
16-01-2013, 06:37 PM
I don't know Mick. Seem to be getting more & more 1 acre town blocks these days rather than the bigger acreages further out. The 44 inch suits them pretty good and no rops so can get under the trees better. Also, I mulch most of them.
Still dreaming about a 60". If it ever becomes a reality I think it would be a Ferris IS3100 or a Super Z. Whichever has a fuel injected engine by then.

Mick
16-01-2013, 06:52 PM
I agree, Im doing/quoting way more small props. Havent quoted a large area in ages!

Only reason to go with a Ferris is the suspension but even then SZ has the flex forks. It rides pretty good and Id expect the SZ to way outlast a Ferris!
Its the hydro system thats the big plus on the SZ.

The next gen (2013) SZ will come in 2 variants. Standard will have older hydro system (or similar) on current frame and the "HD" version will have the industrial hydros and also larger drive tyres and better seat, also probably cost a lot more! There are other differences but the hydros are the main thing.
Check out their site. There are currently 3 different versions!