Stripes
09-03-2011, 07:22 PM
Sprinklers v drip irrigation
A properly installed irrigation system whether it is drip or spray will give the same results. Sprinklers and drip systems both have their advantages and disadvantages.
Drip systems are generally much easier to hide as 13mm pipes are on soil surface below mulch. For this reason it is also harder to inspect driplines to check they are working properly. You can easily see if sprinklers are working or not and identify faults quickly. Pressure will drop when there is a leak in a sprinkler system. A drip system may have an undetected leak due to pipes being hidden.
In the event of damage to a dripline, emitters can block when dirt enters line. Filters can easily be cleaned on sprinkler systems in the event of dirt entering the pipes.
Sprinklers can be affected by wind. Spray patterns can be inaccurate during windy situations. This can normally be overcome when systems are running at night.
Drip irrigation has a slower absorption rate so runoff is unlikely in heavy clay soils. Sprinklers can runoff if water cannot be absorbed by soil quickly enough in clay soils. This can normally be avoided by reducing the run time on each station and having two start times per cycle- Eg. Instead of zones running for 1 hour, they are broken into two 30 minute cycles with a 4-6 hour gap allowing water to be absorbed deep into soil.
Sprinklers have been subject to water restrictions in the past. With the building of the desalination plant in Sydney, this is unlikely to happen again but nothing is certain. In the event of water restrictions, this can be overcome by installing large rainwater tanks.
Drip irrigation has been exempt from previous water restrictions (in Sydney.)
Sprinklers can soak widespread areas. Dripline will generally only soak areas within 200mm of pipes.
Pipes for sprinklers are generally only on the outside of lawns and garden beds with sprinklers spraying inward. Driplines must be installed in a grid pattern in lawns and garden beds. This can lead to damage during maintenance (such as hedge trimmer cutting lines) and re-planting of garden beds. Re-turfing may be required after dripline installation due to trenches being 400mm apart.
Dripline is labour intensive during installation. Pipes can ‘float’ above mulch over time and become unsightly.
Dripline uses very low pressure. Pipes and fittings can blowout during pressure fluctuations. Pressure reducing valves are required to ensure water pressure is low enough to avoid blowouts, causing dirt to enter lines.
Sprinklers will cover foliage of plants, keeping them clean and fresh. During extended dry and windy periods, dust can build up on foliage of plants becoming unsightly and block pores when dripline is used. Dripline is suited better to some plants where wetting of foliage can result in spreading of disease such as blackspot on Roses and petal blight on Azaleas.
A properly installed irrigation system whether it is drip or spray will give the same results. Sprinklers and drip systems both have their advantages and disadvantages.
Drip systems are generally much easier to hide as 13mm pipes are on soil surface below mulch. For this reason it is also harder to inspect driplines to check they are working properly. You can easily see if sprinklers are working or not and identify faults quickly. Pressure will drop when there is a leak in a sprinkler system. A drip system may have an undetected leak due to pipes being hidden.
In the event of damage to a dripline, emitters can block when dirt enters line. Filters can easily be cleaned on sprinkler systems in the event of dirt entering the pipes.
Sprinklers can be affected by wind. Spray patterns can be inaccurate during windy situations. This can normally be overcome when systems are running at night.
Drip irrigation has a slower absorption rate so runoff is unlikely in heavy clay soils. Sprinklers can runoff if water cannot be absorbed by soil quickly enough in clay soils. This can normally be avoided by reducing the run time on each station and having two start times per cycle- Eg. Instead of zones running for 1 hour, they are broken into two 30 minute cycles with a 4-6 hour gap allowing water to be absorbed deep into soil.
Sprinklers have been subject to water restrictions in the past. With the building of the desalination plant in Sydney, this is unlikely to happen again but nothing is certain. In the event of water restrictions, this can be overcome by installing large rainwater tanks.
Drip irrigation has been exempt from previous water restrictions (in Sydney.)
Sprinklers can soak widespread areas. Dripline will generally only soak areas within 200mm of pipes.
Pipes for sprinklers are generally only on the outside of lawns and garden beds with sprinklers spraying inward. Driplines must be installed in a grid pattern in lawns and garden beds. This can lead to damage during maintenance (such as hedge trimmer cutting lines) and re-planting of garden beds. Re-turfing may be required after dripline installation due to trenches being 400mm apart.
Dripline is labour intensive during installation. Pipes can ‘float’ above mulch over time and become unsightly.
Dripline uses very low pressure. Pipes and fittings can blowout during pressure fluctuations. Pressure reducing valves are required to ensure water pressure is low enough to avoid blowouts, causing dirt to enter lines.
Sprinklers will cover foliage of plants, keeping them clean and fresh. During extended dry and windy periods, dust can build up on foliage of plants becoming unsightly and block pores when dripline is used. Dripline is suited better to some plants where wetting of foliage can result in spreading of disease such as blackspot on Roses and petal blight on Azaleas.