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PaulG
12-08-2011, 12:01 AM
Have been doing a bit of Googling tonight looking for options for new bar and chain for my saw and came across this good video on one of the Stihl USA pages.

Gives a good rundown on chain and bar care. Might be handy to watch for any newbies or anyone who needs a refresher course. (Set me straight on a few things I wasn't sure about).

http://stihldealer.net/videolibrary/OnePlayer.aspx?v=3&vt=3&vb=0&id=3

Cranbourne Lawnmowing
12-08-2011, 12:10 AM
Best tip I can give is don't let the chain hit dirt will make it blunt quicker than you could fart.

Tender Lovin Lawn&Garden
12-08-2011, 01:11 AM
when cutting this palm last week there was a steel bar that must have been there to hold it up when small and any way didnt see it saw sparks come out stoped and thought hmm thats not right any way chain now stuffed.

Mark QLD
22-01-2012, 06:22 PM
just be sure to always pull your saws apart and clean with air and lube after cutting palms the sawdust and sap out of palms will eat your saws out fast chains and bars are cheap when it comes to saw rebuild

Grassman177
23-01-2012, 06:27 PM
that is so time consuming. i would rather pay the little it costs to have it professionally sharpened. or, we are getting the new oregon powersharp chains. too easy to sharpen.

ian
23-01-2012, 06:49 PM
that is so time consuming. i would rather pay the little it costs to have it professionally sharpened. or, we are getting the new oregon powersharp chains. too easy to sharpen.
Grassman he's talking about after cutting palms even if the chain is still sharp the fibrous nature of palms and there sap will destroy a chain if it's not cleaned out properly after use not that you probably get many palms where you are :)

SunM
24-01-2012, 10:59 AM
Sharpening chains is piss easy. I haven't seen the tools for Husky saws yet as mine is still fairly new but I've been working with Stihls for years. On the file holder it has the angle you should be sharpening at, keep that line parallel with the bar, ~3 strokes, sometimes more if you've hit something. All up takes ~20 minutes to strip down the saw, clean it, sharpen it and put it back together. If you have an air compressor it makes life sooooo much easier.

Your other option is one of these, a Powersharp Chainsaw Sharpener. I never used one or seen one in use but it looks like it could make sharpening heaps faster.
http://thisoldhouse.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341cae1553ef0148c7571c03970c-250wi

Also to add onto what Cranbourne Lawnmowing said earlier about hitting the dirt, you can make your chain blunt when cutting stumps at ground level. All kinds of crap end up in the bark of some species, so just give it a quick brush down before cutting it.

Grassman177
24-01-2012, 01:08 PM
that is what i mentioned in my above post. we are getting these, cuz on some jobs you need a new chain several times, and it gets annoying for as little chainsaw work we do. too expensive to keep too many chains around. sharpening on site is not feasable really. so, that will solve our issues.

i can understand the palms think for sure. pine trees can so the same thing

Mark QLD
27-01-2012, 07:23 PM
the powersharp looks good. have not seen one about before . i have a vice bolted on my trailer and just use a free file to sharpen my chains and file down rakers. it holds from a 25 inch bar on my 460 to a 14 inch on my pole saw and all in between . will check out them powersharp gadgets but.

ian
27-01-2012, 09:50 PM
mark you need new chains and bars for the powersharp setup

Grassman177
28-01-2012, 01:40 PM
yes, they come as a set, you get bar, chain, sharpener and stone. then, all you have to do is buy chains which i am told come with a new stone each time. we just got ours and ready to install. i am so curious how long the new chain design will stay sharp compared to standard. and how many times you can sharpen them. it sure sharpens fast though

PaulG
28-01-2012, 01:43 PM
^^^ Mark what's your business name here in Twmba? Arborist/Tree climber by the sound of it?

Redeye
28-01-2012, 02:39 PM
damn! they only make them up to 18" bar/chain

Grassman177
29-01-2012, 01:49 AM
i have never even used larger than 18 in bar, what the heck you cutting down? lol

we got a 16 incher, to try out before replacing all chains on our saws

Redeye
29-01-2012, 12:23 PM
can you let us know how they go Grassman?
my 2 big saws are a 22" & a 24", also have a 14" and 2 pole-saws, 12 & 10" - I wonder how hard/easy they would be on pole-saws to sharpen?

PaulG
29-01-2012, 12:29 PM
My only worry with those new sharpeners is how much meat they take off the chain each time used. Does anyone have feedback on this?

That is what I think would be the advantage of file-sharpening. You only need about three passes of the file to put a good edge back on the teeth.

Kathryn
29-01-2012, 01:13 PM
it only takes a couple of minutes to change a chain over. and when you get home sharpen them. a sharpener only wears out a chain slightly quicker than a file, but at least you know your angles are right.

Grassman177
29-01-2012, 02:00 PM
the angles are preset, cant screw them up. we prefer if this works well cost wise to do this and avoid human error on sharpening. changing the chain sucks imo.

i will let you all know how it goes, should be using it here in a month or so when we start up again.

SunM
29-01-2012, 05:02 PM
If the Powersharp sharpens effectively then I too would prefer using it. 2 minutes to sharpen the chain vs 15 minutes or more by hand, thats extra work that could be done in the time saved. 15-20 minutes saved is enough to prune a tree (except M. styphellioides) away from powerlines. We buy chains by the roll and one of our guys puts them together so chain replacement is easy. It'd be great if you are doing stumps all day or cutting stuff thats full of dirt and other crap.

Redeye
29-01-2012, 08:23 PM
agreed - might have to see if its feasible/worthwhile to put smaller bars on my big units

PaulG
30-01-2012, 02:03 AM
A few of the comments for this vid say the design of the chain causes it to dull very quickly requiring frequent sharpening. Using their special chains only, I wonder how expensive they are compared to regular saw chain.

Grassman you're the guinea-pig. Let us know how it goes.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HonJ4aMGBiA&feature=related

Grassman177
30-01-2012, 04:16 AM
i am the guinea pig, lol. i will let you know cuz i am going to be cutting oak withit in march starting out

Grassman177
30-01-2012, 04:23 AM
A few of the comments for this vid say the design of the chain causes it to dull very quickly requiring frequent sharpening. Using their special chains only, I wonder how expensive they are compared to regular saw chain.

Grassman you're the guinea-pig. Let us know how it goes.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HonJ4aMGBiA&feature=related

i watched the video closely and never a mention of the chain dulling any dif than a normal one. i think you misheard

PaulG
30-01-2012, 10:45 AM
No they didn't mention it in the vid. I read it in a couple of the comments posted below.

happymowin
30-01-2012, 11:50 AM
i find the elec sharpeners to sharpen MUCH better than a file

if you are rough/in a hurry you CAN take more meat off, but that means to slow down a bit

after using it the first couple times i wouldnt go back to a file (lol, unless like one time i left the sharpener at home)


if you only ise the saw OCCASIONALLY, stick with the file.,

if you do LOTS then the elec one will save you time, which is money, and chains are cheap compared to time used

i wouldnt want to spend my weekend sharpening a bucketfull of chains.

charge the customer for the time to maintain and clean your machine, or youre behind the eightball

and if they SEE you sharpening it (ie on "their" time) they at least know WHY you charge so much, cos they can SEE how often you have to service it within the job. -else they think he charged me $80 and only cut for like 15 minutes

cheers

63impala
30-01-2012, 11:55 AM
The only draw back is u have to use there special chains.:cool:

Grassman177
30-01-2012, 12:50 PM
yes, but you dont have to have multple chains to do one job, never even change it out, just a few sec on the sharpener and off you go to keep cutting. brilliant!

Scooby Steve
30-01-2012, 09:41 PM
Sounds great Grassman keep us updated on how it goes. Good thread Paul.

Woodchip
14-02-2012, 09:21 AM
Regarding chain oil....I have always just used the cheapest engine oil available, No frills 4lt etc, my belief is ...well your only chucking the oil away anyway!!
Have saved myself a packet over the years I reckon.
Anyone else use engine oil as bar oil?

cheers

Grassman177
09-03-2012, 06:54 AM
i dont use it, i use genuine stihl bar and chain oil, no reason either, ahah

anyways, guys, a small update on the powersharp chain.

we did not check for sure and assumed the dealer sent us the right part, but to find out these chains are currenly only made in 3/8 spacing. our sprocket is 325 spacing which of course made it incompatible and we found out fast.. fortunately, according to books we can change the sprocket on our saw to match the chain.

good news is the little we used it, it cut like a hot knife thru butter!!! so, once i get it back up and running with that chain, i will post more about it.

they will be producing the 325 chain version starting in 2013 i was told from oregon themselves.

Mark QLD
09-03-2012, 08:07 AM
gday just wondering about the rakers does this gadget sort them out too. i go threw a lot of chains and like to get my moneys worth. i am using a 20 inch bar to rip posts and 25 inch to butt out brimbel box and brigalow on my place. do you recken this thing is as good as a file. i am never in that much of a hurry to sharpen a chain and if i was proberly should not have a saw in my hand. weather i am under a power line ,cutting fence posts or a customer in town.

Grassman177
10-03-2012, 10:44 AM
i dont know the answer to your question mate

Chris B
10-03-2012, 09:34 PM
Hi Mark, the powersharp system sharpens the depth guages at the same time as the cutters - its a specially designed chain that you can only sharpen with that system

Mark QLD
10-03-2012, 10:06 PM
ok thanks mate, just cant see the point in them.i have used all sorts of you bute gadges and sharpeners and cant beat a normal hand file. i suppose i am just against blokes rushing with saws,it is not productive in any situation. stay safe mate

Grassman177
12-03-2012, 05:21 AM
i gotcha now mark. sorry, your lingo was throwing me off i guess. what can i say, im a bloody american.

we think once properly mounted on our saw, that it will save tons of time, and offer no counter safety in application for any reason due to not even having to take the chain off, only tighten until it has reached the usefullness of its life. brilliant as long as it cuts as many hours etc as a normal chain. that, will be determined at some point. lol

Mark QLD
12-03-2012, 08:20 PM
yer sorry grassman i should have looked closer to ur location, i was thinking kansas must have been in tassie , no wonder i have not herd of it, gotta hava a laugh ay, stay safe up,over,down,were your hills are mate , good one grassman

HPM
12-03-2012, 08:36 PM
Regarding chain oil....I have always just used the cheapest engine oil available, No frills 4lt etc, my belief is ...well your only chucking the oil away anyway!!
Have saved myself a packet over the years I reckon.
Anyone else use engine oil as bar oil?

cheers
I use engine oil for bar oil.
Genuine bar oil is a little thicker so you need to keep an eye on your oil level as it comes out a little faster.
But I think if I was using my saw all day every day I would use genuine bar oil.

Mark QLD
12-03-2012, 09:04 PM
yer, have evan used gear box oil, and the job was done,i bought a 20lt drum of stihl bar oil a few months ago and will do it again when its dry. not saying its better but it works.just dont put tordon in with oil as it does clogg.hard to say what is best,

Grassman177
13-03-2012, 06:57 PM
tordon? here, that is a brush killer herbicide name......what is tordon to you?

is all good for a laugh Mark, i understand you might think i was from tassie, but i am right dead in the center of the good ole USA.

PaulG
13-03-2012, 08:46 PM
There's a few different types of Tordon available here Grassman.

Tordon Double Strength does the tree regrowth, cut-stump, stem-injection type of work.

Tordon 75D does annual and perennial broadleaf weeds.

Then there's also Tordon Granules Weed and Brush Herbicide which might be the one you mentioned.

All marketed through Dow Agro-Sciences here in Aus.

South East Mowing
13-03-2012, 09:10 PM
tordon? here, that is a brush killer herbicide name......what is tordon to you?

is all good for a laugh Mark, i understand you might think i was from tassie, but i am right dead in the center of the good ole USA.

Yeah and I seen him on the other forum!

He has only 1 head - definitely not from Tasmania:laughing::laughing:

Grassman177
14-03-2012, 03:04 PM
thanks mate.

never been, but plan on it, some day

happymowin
14-03-2012, 03:15 PM
i was told not to use normal engine oil on the chain cos it slings off quicker than bar oil,

i only use 5 litres a year or two, so for me the saving isnt much, so i use bar oil

the guys who do my tree work SWEAR using engine oil is ok (thats what they do) and theyd go thru drums of the stuff, so i spose theyd know a thing or two.


just like my thoughts on using lanolin or some home remedy for the hedge trimmer

i bought 5 litres of lanolin and should last me 2 or 3 yrs, so the saving would be minimal, thats why i went with "genuine" lanolin instead of making up something from someones recipe to save a couple bucks.


sometimes if the saving aint huge, i dont reckon its worth it.


cheers

edbeek
14-03-2012, 04:55 PM
My saw manual says EP90 gear oil is ok to use if proper chain oil isn't available. I'll stick with the bar & chain oil.

Mark QLD
14-03-2012, 07:20 PM
i argee gear oil is great, there is an australian made bar oil that even has that destinctive smell of gear oil,just cant remember the name but.do find thin oil will empty your oil tank and the saw is still on the fell,and that just makes a mess of chains and puts that blue streek up your bar.

Grassman177
15-03-2012, 09:30 AM
i love lanolin, we use Fluid Film, awesome stuff for so many tings, even waxed my ford explorer with the stuff, worked super good on eveyr surface but windows, of course not the windows lol

HPM
15-03-2012, 08:48 PM
i love lanolin, we use Fluid Film, awesome stuff for so many tings, even waxed my ford explorer with the stuff, worked super good on eveyr surface but windows, of course not the windows lol
I've been told the Grassman has a small bottle of lanolin by the bedside table....

ian
15-03-2012, 09:39 PM
I've been told the Grassman has a small bottle of lanolin by the bedside table....
that's true he swears by it for greasing the runners on the draws :)

Fred's mowing
04-11-2012, 08:03 PM
Recently done 2 chains in through my own slackness. Should know better!
New chains stretch, very quickly.
Not paying attention, they stretch & if your for example your condensing a truck/trailer load, burying the bar deep into all sorts of stuff, with a loose chain, the guides wont track cleanly around the bar, burring them.
Once the guides are burred, its hard to even force them back into the bar, & even if u can, they may jam.
Its poss to file the burrs off, but far more prudent to simply take a quick glance & if slack, adjust it.
Cheers Fred.

Fred's mowing
05-11-2012, 04:23 PM
http://www.gaspares.com.au/newproduct.html

for those interested

cheers fred

administrator
05-11-2012, 04:58 PM
PowerSharp Sharpens On The Saw, On The Job, In Seconds.
PowerSharp® is an easy to use, precision sharpening system that gives chain saw users the power to sharpen their own chain in a matter of seconds with a simple attachment.



Fast – From dull to sharp in as little as 3 seconds.


Easy – Only three steps to faster, easier cutting.


Portable – Bar-mount sharpener is lightweight, durable, and highly visible.


Precise – Exact alignment between cutter and honing surface for perfect angles and knife-sharp edges.


Tough – PowerSharp® chain is as durable and hard-working as other Oregon® 3/8" pitch, low-profile chain.



http://www.gaspares.com.au/newproduct.html

As far as i know you have to buy the chain and bar combo with the first then you can buy chains seperate and stones as they wear because the bar has a connection hole so thepower sharp kit can be fitted. Good for part time users of the chainsaw .

edbeek
05-11-2012, 07:36 PM
http://www.gaspares.com.au/newproduct.html

for those interested

cheers fred
Very convenient, but seems to work out pretty expensive going on ebay prices.
Over $100 for bar, chain & sharpener.
You get 5-15 sharpens out of a chain, then replace chain & stone ($60-$75 on ebay for 14" from UK or USA)
As Admin says, probably good if you're not using the saw a real lot.

Mark QLD
06-11-2012, 12:23 AM
its just another day.take a link out . sand dirt and possum will always stretch a chain,with summer on .

SunM
06-11-2012, 09:11 AM
Very convenient, but seems to work out pretty expensive going on ebay prices.
Over $100 for bar, chain & sharpener.
You get 5-15 sharpens out of a chain, then replace chain & stone ($60-$75 on ebay for 14" from UK or USA)
As Admin says, probably good if you're not using the saw a real lot.

We were going to trial these at work, but it never eventuated. Getting 10-15 sharpens out of it would be great, it would save us a ship load out time. Filing the saw in <2 minutes vs 10 minutes. In my job thats an extra few trees pruned or for tower crews, an extra tree cleared from conductors/service wires, it also stops 1 man on the tower from trying to find something to do while your sharpen your saw.

seliment
06-11-2012, 11:44 AM
http://www.gaspares.com.au/newproduct.html

for those interested

cheers fred

Looks like the cutters on this system have a completely different profile to chisel or semi-chisel chain that we are used to.
Anyone have any idea or experience in comparing their cutting rates, kickback, how long chain stays sharp etc compared to conventional chain?

As SunM wrote, they saw possible advantages in less downtime (in an arborist situation) with sharpening etc., but this could be easily negated if the chain has lower cutting speed.

Joe