Anyone have/used one ?
Cheers Fred.
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Anyone have/used one ?
Cheers Fred.
I don't have one but they look very interesting if they weren't so expensive and I wasn't to old to dig out trees I would probably look at getting one just to try
looks to be interesting tool.
Pretty good markup/margin for those selling it in Aust ....
My research online shows Amazon Aust @ $200 approx and Dr Techlove @$164 incl delivery,
compared to price in US of about $USD50 at Lowes hardware.
There also appears to a long handled (without loop handle end) version also avail in US.
Is it worth freighting in from USA?
Fred, what is your intended application?
Other alternatives could be
DeWit Spork .... think of a spade with 4 edge sharpened triangular points at end of blade
Slammer tool .... crowbar on steroids .... concave sharpened blade powered by a slide hammer.
A draining spade (also known as a grave) & not to be confused with a trench shovel.
I have one (40 yr old, Spear & Jackson England) and although it does not have the concave blade end, (could sharpen it that way if wanted), it cuts thhrough roots easily as the 60cm long blade is made of heavy steel (would be 4-5mm thick) and the handle/tang is steel almost up to the D at the top. It would have much more weight/momentum than the root slayer.
Joe
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Thats a better deal than what I first found, but best ebay deal looks to be about $Aud120 landed + gst.
Pity that its shipped by ebay global shipping program as it is a 'ripoff' .... Pitney Bowes handles the shipping (as an agent) and adds in an additional 'customs charge' when in fact there is NO customs duty on such items entering Aust.
I have been told that one should attempt to negotiate with Seller to see if they will ship/post direct rather than use the Global Shipping option which eBay apparently tries to get sellers to sign up to as the default ship method.
Ebay's global shipping is a real killer on lower valued items --- can cost as much as the item.
Joe
That is the Nomad version.
The long handled variant is the XL model
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Radius-G...2511/303354762
Then there is a competitor product, the Root Assassin
https://rootassassinshovel.com
Joe
Damn I hate when I'm wrong as my sig line says Anything Ian says may or may not be garbage in this case it definitely was garbage :) I just saw the different handle and assumed it was the long handle
Thanx fellas.
Joe, my intended applications vary.
I initially was looking at this in conjunction with other tools for digging out a Montery cypress hedge (my property) that I planted 20 odd yrs ago.
That together with possibly the slammer tool may help me get the stumps out that are planted partially over the top of our waterline.
Obviously, that wasn't a consideration when the hedge was planted ......... :doh.
Anyhow, I think it would be a great tool for many other applications as well.
Generally cutting smaller tree roots, transplanting plants, dividing clumping plants, planting etc. & lets not forget the camping long drop !:flush
I particularly liked the v cut in the blade. I think this would help in particular with the cutting of roots, slipping into the v, rather than sliding off a straighter blade.
Thanx for putting forward the drainage spade that looks quite similar in some aspects.
I would certainly will consider it. Its very similar in weight & about half the price.
Thing I liked about the slayer though was, it seemed to have a much bigger & right angled foot platform.
Id def want the long handled xl version though. Apart from working in very confined spaces, I don't see the advantage of just about any short handled tools ?
Cheers Fred.
Fred,
Any of these tools I suspect (usually discover) are very good for puncturing / severing a waterpipe when it is 'discovered', usually unexpectedly in these circumstances.
if you can find a draining spade of some vintage (eg garage sale, ex deceased estate etc), it will probably be much better quality (heavier etc) than current versions.
Agree that the root slayer has a bigger tread on blade, but easy (farmer's) fix is to tack weld a piece of pipe or angle to top of blade to make a tread.
Another tool worth considering, once you get some major root growth exposed, is the chainsaw --- with a tungsten carbide chain fitted --- you can cut into dirt with relative immunity with them.
Maybe its just easier to get in the excavator, sacrifice the waterpipe and the replace/relay it --- poly pipe is not very expensive in the context of things and its not rocket science to do up the couplings (eg forget the expensive plumber).
Joe
Thanx Joe.
Will probably be a winter exercise so a little bit away yet.
Also thinking about not removing the stumps.
Just removing the hedge to ground level, erecting a structure & growing chinese star jasmine over it as a screen.
Just wonder if it would flourish with all that root mass in the ground ?
The idea is to regain some land to make it easier to put the caravan away.
Tungstan carbide chain sounds good.
Would have used a chainsaw anyway for certain bigger roots.
Dig around the roots to expose them, then hose them down & leave a day.
Chop 2/3 to 3/4 way through & finish with the slammer tool ?
Still considering my options.
Was just hoping someone may have had a shot & opinion on the root slayer, as it did look interesting for various applications.
Cheers Fred.
c.s.jasmine would grow in a salt mine......
Fred,
have you considered just cutting off near ground level and then reducing (some of) the buttress roots etc with a stump grinder?
There are some other innovative ways ...
1.
If you can burn, you cut the stump a bit higher and cut a hole down centre, possibly put in a bit of flue pipe and turn it into a chimney aja 'rocket stove'.
google/ utube shows how its done. Does a very fast burnout.
2.
Drill some holes into stump and infect with a fungus that lives on conifer wood.
Eg the shi-take mushroom fungus decimates sycamore maple logs real fast (thats how they grow them commercially).
Apparently drilling holes and filling with epsom salts and/or potassium nitrate or a nitrogen fertiliser (urea, ammonium nitrate [without the diesel :big grin] will speedup the breakdown).
Basically a 'dry rot' will spread through the wood as the fungus (mycellium) & consumes the cellulose/lignins in the wood.
That should reduce the underground root mass to a crumbling mass 'real fast'.
Joe