Broke the height adjuster handle on my 560 the other day,it looks to be held on to the axle/height adj assembly by pressed studs ? surely not
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Hi Courty, S##t I knew I forgot to tell you guys about something, yes the handle is riveted on, I replaced with a couple of bolts and nylock nuts, no problems since.
A while ago, my handle cracked across where the height adjuster locator pin is. As David did, I drilled out the rivets and replaced with bolts. Welded up the handle and fashioned a new locator pin. I can't remember now, but I think I might have beefed up the handle a bit too, around the pin.
Well that may be short lived as the safety issue has now surfaced for users in Australia
As we know the engine stop lever or bars are fitted to these machines to stop people from getting their fingers cut off,no current law is in place for Australia.
But isn't far away as a safety device and may stop Rover Aust fitting a variable engine speed control.
What's actually required is the engine (blades) must come to a spinning stop within 5 seconds from maximum running revs and having a engine which can be governed by operator having revs manually adjusted makes the engine rev to whatever the operator wants beyond the 3000 rpm.
This is stopped by removing this option and keeping the maximum revs to 3000 RPM max so the engine can stop spinning within the 5 seconds allowed time.
This system is being used overseas for mowing operators with employees safety in mind so soon to be law here on all lawn mowers entering this country,if anything is changed or modified by the mower shop or owner operator certain issues will arise with insurance claims and Gov.t authorities.
As a point of interest the Rover engine is a Honda GXV160 copy
Ive had a sp50 for about 1.3 years now, bought from new with a BS 750 SERIES
Its been a good mower for the price and keeps going, just a couple problems along the way.
1. Both back wheels snapped off the axle at different times ie the plastic part of the wheel cracked and the outside of the wheel fell off
Bought new wheels about $36 each
2. Sheer pin that connects the drive gear with the axle sheered off, most likely due to rust.
Just replaced it with a c pin I bought from the big green shed.
3. Handlebar s move very badly as the bolt holes that hold the handles to she body have widened over time.
Used new metal/welder to weld new metal then re drilled and made sure bolts are always tight. Used nylon locknuts (factory fitted with normal nuts??)
4. Part that lets you adjust the drive throttle cable on the handlebars the plastic wore out.
Pulled apart and modified the part so its just a plastic block with a hole in it. tHEN retrofitted two wing nuts to either side to allow adjustment, works a treat!
5. Very now cut height even at highest point.
Pull out the lever and push it past the highest point so it sits outside the height adjustment. Works well gives that extra bit of height for ferals.
6. Lost two mulch plugs....most likely at the dump......my fault
Replacement cost 25-$30 each time not to bad
If mulching a lot sometimes the grass gets caught around the pulley that's attached to the gearbox, it has a cover but still can get caught, happened probably 4 times. Causes the mower to vibrate like a bit*h until you clean it and the grass gets squashed into the v pulley!
Have to tip mower up, easier if you remove the blade carrier but no essential. make sure you disconnect the spark plug!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! need to remove the drive belt and need a light and I use a dentist scrapper to scrap out the tightly packed grass.
Other than that a very well made mower! Engine has no problems!
Independent and i know it
How so? The engine is nothing like the Honda, and is much bigger with twice the grunt? I read some whirlpool forum that claimed that, and I laughed.
I was disappointed when Rover parted ways with Briggs over a contractual dispute, as I liked my pro cut 50 with 850. Every dealer including my Rover dealer claimed that they would no longer stock them bla bla bla. Almost every big brand engine is made in Asia these days,...its a fact of life. I am glad I did try THe 910, because it outperforms the 850, and is just as reliable after 2 years. The only thing I dont like is the height of the engine, and the cheap plastic cowling that fades quickly.
I want to die peacefully in my sleep like my Grandfather.....not screaming in terror like the passengers in his car!!!
My 910 is a bit of a pig to start sometimes. Its pretty well new & done about 10-15 hrs work, and works very well, just sometimes it takes 3-5 pulls to get going, auto choke and no throttle cable.
I must have a good one,
whether hot or cold, I have NEVER ever used the priming bulb, and rarely needs more than one pull - I mean like 3 times in 2 years
only time I need to do more than one pull is after tilting the mower, like to change the blades or get down a lot of stairs or some such, it sometimes needs 2 pulls, and takes a while to speed up, sits there chugging, I think I can I think I can, then vroom,
my Honda on the other hand is a pita to start, Hondas easy start system haha, its always hard to start, like 6 or 8 pulls.
Mine usually takes 3 pulls to start in the morning and will go first pull for the rest of the day. I've also noticed if you prime more than 3 pumps, then fuel drips out of the carby onto the chassis
My 560, miss fires/back fires randomly when trying to start. Does anyone else experience this?
Valves need adjusting perhaps?