I think what I have sitting in the shed new-in-box is a 2510. Will have to check. Question is how do you put a saw/hedger attachment on them? I thought they were trimmer only?
I think what I have sitting in the shed new-in-box is a 2510. Will have to check. Question is how do you put a saw/hedger attachment on them? I thought they were trimmer only?
Just take the head off, you could do it in 1 minute.
Finally unboxed this and started to assemble it this afternoon.
Was good to have some good help!
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First thing I did was to remove the engine cover then remove the muffler which was not as easy as is should be because of copious amounts of thread-glue/locktite etc applied by the factory. Almost felt like the bolt were going to break as I turned them out.
Got it apart eventually and out came the spark arrestor as I've had too many issues recently with mufflers becoming blocked.
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Got the shaft on and throttle cable etc hooked up then that was it for today. Hopefully will get the speed-feed head attached tomorrow or Friday plus an hour-meter then start using it next week.
Trying to put teh speed-head on this. Anyone know what tools help to remove the nut from the existing arbor when all it does is spin freely both directions?
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Paul, there is usually a hole in the top cover(the black bit) and another hole or notch in the splined backing plate under the bell. Should be able to get a small screwdriver or 2-3mm drift through the black bit and into the hole/notch. This locks the shaft. Then you can undo the nut. Prob left hand thread.
Cheers guys. Sorted it eventually. Found the locking slot - not the easiest to access and yes, make sure you remember the left-hand thread!
Looks like the arbor in this one is not meant to be swapped out as it has a splined design. The smallest threaded nut with the speed-feed kit was what fitted. Pretty straightforward swap in the end. Can only get the head finger tight when doing it up though which makes me worry it will come flying off during use.
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Only thing I have to work out now is doing my vertical edges when I can't see the head due the size of the debris-guard!
John, Al, and others who've put the speed feed head on the 2510 do you have any close-up pics of it? I've been chatting to Ed and thought we might have sorted this but now I've gone from the head being too lose and unable to tighten it, to now after running the machine the head has tightened itself on the spline so tight that it won't spin at all and is stalling the engine and to boot, I now can't remove it to find a solution.
I never used to have two left hands; seems to be something that has developed over the last few years....
did you fit the brass coloured spacer in the top centre of your photos before the speed head? I'd think this needs to be fitted
http://curraronggardening.com/
"All sin is washed away in the Holy goodness of Beer"
Book of Redeye, Psalm 69
No. This was one of the things I'd been talking to Ed about. When I had the spacer in there the arbor-bit wasn't long enough for the thread in the bolt in teh head to get a start. Leaving it out was the only way to get it to screw on, now it's on so tight I can't undo it unless I find something that can lock the spline from spinning.
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if/when you get it apart, try using the spacer but piss off the plastic shroud you've got on it now - I use the alloy head but the fitting should be much the same IMG143.jpg
http://curraronggardening.com/
"All sin is washed away in the Holy goodness of Beer"
Book of Redeye, Psalm 69
Hey Paul, Remember this?
I'd say, working with your first pic as a starting point.... undo the
nut and remove the bell from under it. Leave the splined backing plate
on the shaft so you can lock the shaft, and that also gives the head a
surface to tighten onto.
Try the makita head on , and see how it fits and tightens.
If you cant get the speedfeed to do the same, you either need the
plastic spacer(like mine does) or you don't have the correct adapter.
If you are lucky (worked with my old stihl) the adapter in the makita
head just might slot straight into the speedfeed head.
Give me a ring if you want anything clarified
Just so people know. LOL
You might have to try to grab the shaft with pliers, from the engine side of the gearhead now to stop it turning while unscrewing the head.
clock-wise to loosen! lol
edit - oh and piss that bloody guard off!
http://curraronggardening.com/
"All sin is washed away in the Holy goodness of Beer"
Book of Redeye, Psalm 69
Nearly three years and I've had my first trouble with the RBC2510 Makita. Broke a clutch spring today. Can't get a spring - have to buy the clutch unit for approximately $60. Have a shop in town who keeps a lot of second-hand gear checking their supply of old machines to see if they might have a spring. By the look of the clutch and drum it might only have one more Summer season left in it anyway.
Just looking up parts and prices in the USA and how stupid is this - the clutch drum is still available but the clutch assembly itself is listed as obsolete??? That's just stupid...