I paid $1250 with 3 sets of blades. If you take the blades off the order it's about $100 more than Arfa paid for his. Still good value IMO.
I paid $1250 with 3 sets of blades. If you take the blades off the order it's about $100 more than Arfa paid for his. Still good value IMO.
A few pages back, the ybravo 25 was suggested as another "left field" replacement for the inadequate local Honda 216. Unfortunately, with the exchange rate no longer in our favour, I doubt whether many would be willing to take the gamble. The delivered cost would be approx. 2k, while still carrying a number of questionable American peculiarities.
Arfa's HRX appears to be panning out well (from all accounts) so, is there anyone out there currently using a ybravo (in Australia). I would be very interested in getting some feedback as it would provide another option for those of us who are fed up with Honda Australia.
Had this mower for over 12 months now....
Still very happy with it and still on my first set of blades (I'm just about to order a new set). Still cuts a nice lawn, fills the bag to the brim and the "on the fly" mulch to bag lever still works perfectly. Finding, I'm mulching more lawns now and using the bag for the bits that matter. Its still picking up wet grass well and as previously reported, as long as you dump any grass sitting in the shoot into the bag when you empty the catcher it never blocks up.
The key start is working perfectly, as long as I recharge the battery every couple of weeks. I'm so glad I purchased this version, and now hate having to use the pull starter for whatever reason.
Whats gone wrong....
I've had to replace an air filter after a rush of ferals, found one from Bunnings that is identical and cost all of $4.00.
I have a slight rough idle issue that clears up as soon as you hit the go handle. Whilst I haven't dismantled the carb, reading through the US forums it appears the carb is a throw away item. A new complete carb is $25 so am going to order one when I put the blade order in.
Sometimes I find the individual height adjusters a hassle, the plastic hubcaps have fallen off couple of wheels... and I have one townhouse I do that needs the mower lifted around a hot water unit. So this is too big and I really need a smaller mower to take to that job. apart from that, I'm rapt in the thing.
How have you found the height settings being that the Aussie Honda will go down to 10mm and this one only to 25mm is it?
That's not too bad then. I have a number of lawns I do with the 216 on 2nd or 3rd lowest setting so lowest on the 217 would be near equivalent, which is a bit like the TPD Honda I have as well now.
The only problem with going to the lowest setting is that the deck will bottom out unless the lawn is perfectly flat. I've only cut 1 lawn on that setting. All the lawns I mow with it are done on the 2nd lowest setting (about a 4-5 on the hru) except for 1 backyard which I cut a setting higher (probably 7-8 on the hru). Even on the 2nd lowest setting the deck will sometimes catch.
Yardmate
Good to hear you're still happy with the HRX.
With the carby problem, take off the carby and where the auto choke linkage goes to the cylinder head there is a little wax pellet in a socket of the cylinder head that actuates the choke. Take out the wax pellet and pack it out about 4mm further than standard with a few little washers (and replace the pellet). This turns off the choke earlier as the engine warms up, but still gives choke when the engine is cold.
I found that the auto choke would come on between lawns, so 2x strips into mowing it would "chuggy chug" until about half way through a front lawn before the choke would turn off. Packing with the washers made it perfect.
Like you, it's been more than a year since I went over to the HRX.
Here are a few photos of how the Limo is running to make all you HRU users jealous.
Just click on the pictures to make them bigger.
IMG_3394.jpg
Here is how the plastic deck is wearing - you can see the steel plate I put in to protect the leading edge of the mulch ramp. on the ground is the new blade, old blade, original upper blade and the spacer disc I made to drop the blades down a bit. You can see the deck is wearing well - about the same if not better than an alloy deck.
IMG_3396.jpg
Here is a close up of the blade wear - new underneath the old shows how much wear you get before the lift flutes wear out. This is the 3rd blade after around 1,400 domestic lawns averaging a 800m square block.
IMG_3397.jpg
Mower fell off the back of the truck while I was reversing (forgot to secure it) and I ran over it with the truck - got jammed underneath.
The only damage to the mower was a crease in the top cover which popped back out (with a bit of forcefull encouragement)
IMG_3398.jpg
"You call that a catcher ?? - now THAT'S a catcher !!"
Big bag kit - yeah, right !! ..........Ha Ha, ya gotta be joking !
Last edited by Arfa Brayne; 26-01-2014 at 04:13 PM. Reason: clarity of instructions
"Can't" is a dirty 4 letter word.
If someone says "Can't" , take the "T" off the end and brew it.
Sip on a mugfull, relax, and take a look at what you've got left to work with.
crikey, mate, that's a good recommendation for a mower,
so can mr Honda answer us as to WHY we cant just have this mower here in Australia instead of the rubbish they give us or the long haul / big bagger tripe they served up to us contractors?
if I could buy one of these here, id do so even if it had no warranty - like with the rovers how commercial ya only got 3 months warranty.
makes ya appreciate why so many guys have gone away from Honda.
good onya for posting ya photos and comments arfa
happy aussie day all
Hi Arfa,
did you have lawns with sand soil for mowing? because i have them and it make me more damage to blades and deck. And does it make more damage to your mower deck and blades? and also what you will say for this deck is it better and stronger from alloy deck?
Thanks Zoran
Big Star Maintenance
Zoran
https://bigstarmaintenance.com.au
www.Acreagemowingmelbourne.com.au
www.facebook.com/BigStarLawnMowing
i already used 5 pairs of blades within 1 year
Zoran - most damage/wear in my area comes from sticks, rocks and gumnuts.
Not much sand., but when it's dry and dusty I guess there is a fair bit of grit.
Even I've been stunned by how long the blades last - I think it's because on the Aussie HRU's the blades instead of wearing out on the cutting face, they wear out on the "lift" flutes which are comparitively tiny area and on a fairly hard angle (golfing - think a "4 iron") . It's easy to tell because even under dry short growth cutting the catcher won't fill more than 1/2 way when the "lift" wears out. (this is why most blokes run 4x "hi lift blades" - to try to put grass in the catcher better)
But on the HRX bar blade the "lift" doesn't wear out because it's a large lift area on a gentle angle (think "sand wedge") You can see on the photo in the previous post how much cutting edge has worn, and yet the lift area (although getting thin) is still whole. The worn blade in the photo was still cutting and catching well, but I figured they are only $13 per bar blade, so why push it when the blade is obviously done a heap of work and wearing thin.
"Can't" is a dirty 4 letter word.
If someone says "Can't" , take the "T" off the end and brew it.
Sip on a mugfull, relax, and take a look at what you've got left to work with.
The little catch I made to lock the blade clutch lever finally gave way from being bent too many times.http://www.indmowing.com.au/forum/at...5&d=1355010174
I'd always had a better design in mind, along with improving the action of the self drive lever - got it done last night.
The idea is to make the blade lever and the drive lever so they can be operated without getting in each others way - so put the blade lever on the side bar of the handle.
This lets me shorten the throw on the drive lever so it can be used with the thumb while holding the handle with the same hand (one handed).
You have no idea ho much of a difference this make with the speed of a turn at the end of a pass across a lawn. - Instead of making a 2 handed awkward shuffle as you turn it becomes like a twirl of the missus in a ballroom dance. Love it.
Because the controls are almost identical to the new HRU self drive setups- this modification may help those mowies who miss the simplicity of the old mowers without the blade clutch
Click on pictures to make them bigger
Below is the new blade clutch lever in "engaged" position (haven't painted it yet)
handle 2.jpg
Below is a comparison between the old setup and the new setup. Notice the difference between the throw of the self drive levers. Also the modded blade clutch lever is in "disengaged" position.
I used a self drive lever from an old HRU (scrap shed) because the bit where you push is about an inch or so wider than the newer levers - so easier to get with the thumb one handed. (and it's heavier gauge metal)
mower handle.jpg
Why don't they make 'em like this (but better looking) in the factory ??
"Can't" is a dirty 4 letter word.
If someone says "Can't" , take the "T" off the end and brew it.
Sip on a mugfull, relax, and take a look at what you've got left to work with.
Excellent work Arfa. Im looking at all your modifications and will be doing the same.
I removed the blade break totally tho. Wasnt hard.
Everything looks good with a haircut.... ɐuıɥɔ ɯoɹɟ pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ɐ ʎnq ı ǝɯıʇ ʇsɐl ǝɥʇ sʇɐɥʇ
Paul asked
"Was looking at Speedway's site earlier Arfa and the only spares they list are blades and filters. Have you needed wheels or anything else yet?"
Short answer = No.
Long answer -
BLADES = I didn't expect the upper blade to wear, so only bought lower blades. But now on my 3rd lower blade the upper needs replacing.
I'd say replace the upper blade every 2nd or 3rd lower blade. Prices I paid = Lower blade $13, Upper blade $9.75 USD
FILTERS = Buy filters on ebay for a few bucks each. Same as used commonly on Briggs motors. Available everywhere (bunnings, kmart, supacheep, even service stations) - square paper panel type. Replaced once so far.
WHEELS/TYRES = Tyre on LH rear wheel is split for about 30mm on edge from where mower fell off ute tray and I backed over it. Otherwise I reckon the tyres and wheels will last at least another few years. They are wearing great - less wheelspin means less wear, and if they do wear out, the front wheels are interchangeable with the rear.
The Aussie HRU I put into service at the same time as the HRX already has bald rear wheels, and will need replacements by winter.
"Can't" is a dirty 4 letter word.
If someone says "Can't" , take the "T" off the end and brew it.
Sip on a mugfull, relax, and take a look at what you've got left to work with.