There's some good advice on this thread, but some people are confusing chain gauge (width) with pitch (distance between links/rivets). 3/8 L/P (which a 192 runs) is the pitch .043 & .050 are the gauge. You couldn't run .050 chain on an .043 bar, it won't fit (I have both).
If you're ever confused about the chain your saw takes, it is stamped on the blunt end of the bar (pitch, gauge & number of drive links)
I have a large saw that runs a 3/8 H/P sprocket & it'll run any gauge 3/8 H/P chain as long as the bar gauge matches the chain - because the pitch is the only thing that needs to match the sprocket & the gauge needs to match the bar.
Clear as mud?
Humm, now I remember why I stopped posting on these forums! Geez, thanks for editing my post so that it no longer represents what I tried to convey mate!
Once again; the pitch is the only thing that needs to match the sprocket (as against gauge - if you disagree, I'd like to know why?)
And once again; the gauge needs to match the bar (once again, if you disagree, I'd like to know why?)
Whether the sprocket is on a bar, or on the clutch its a sprocket lol! And the sprocket only needs to match the pitch, not the gauge!
Like you say, obvious lol!
My chain came off (and the carby cover) again today on a job. doh, bugger, fcuk! Then I really tightened her up(more so than usual), (chain and nut) and it was awesome. I tightened it so i couldn't move the chain around the bar by hand, but when i started her up the chain spun no probs. I adjusted the tension after i started it back up. It was a joy to use. i think that has been my prob. Thinking the chain has to be able to be moved back and forth by hand after the cover goes back on and the nut is tightened. Cos thats what i remembered seeing the chainsaw instructor at tafe doing.
And obviously not having the nut on tight enough doesn't help matters.
Taught this old dog a new trick.
thats not really a good situation rae, the chain definitely needs to turn freely by hand but the nuts should be as tight as you can get them - having the chain that tight will damage the bar, when you adjust the chain you should be holding the bar at the end so it is supporting the weight of the machine while you adjust the chain tension
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tN7X7VvgGBg sorry to repeat what I'm sure you know/learned but I'm super pedantic about chain adjustments, never had an accident, never want to
http://curraronggardening.com/
"All sin is washed away in the Holy goodness of Beer"
Book of Redeye, Psalm 69
Cheers redeye. Just watched the vid. I do push up the bar when tighting the chain. They difference that i did see was that the vid showed that you tension the chain once the side cover is back on. I have been tensioning the chain before i put the cover on. It turns nicely, but once i tighten the nut on the cover, the chain wont budge. Will re-read my owners manual and watch more vids. So i dont wreck my poor chainy any further.