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Thread: chainsaw tuition on morn pen.

  1. #31
    Senior Member geoff's Avatar
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    Default Re: chainsaw tuition on morn pen.

    Quote Originally Posted by great nature View Post
    Well I’m back from the mechanics. Time to hang head in shame. The guy said the chain was too loose and the sprocket is fairly worn (second hand saw). Not enough to replace though. He said the tension was ok but then he held up the nose of the bar and slid the chain and the chain just hung really loose (“her vagine hangs like sleeve of wizard”. He didn’t say that but Borat popped into my head). With the chain loose once the bar is pushed and the sprocket a little worn and then the fact that new chains become loose quite quickly, he said thats why my chain comes off and thats what cause that nasty burring. So I'll start pushing the nose up when adjusting the tension and I'll probably make it a smidge tighter than before.

    You have 12 seconds to hang shlt on me.
    if thats worst error that you make in this game ..mate you are doing fine...reckon most that have been doing it awhile have made some bigger blues than that..i have lol+

  2. #32
    Senior Member Wyadra's Avatar
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    Default Re: chainsaw tuition on morn pen.


  3. #33
    Senior Member kakegc's Avatar
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    Default Re: chainsaw tuition on morn pen.

    There's some good advice on this thread, but some people are confusing chain gauge (width) with pitch (distance between links/rivets). 3/8 L/P (which a 192 runs) is the pitch .043 & .050 are the gauge. You couldn't run .050 chain on an .043 bar, it won't fit (I have both).

    If you're ever confused about the chain your saw takes, it is stamped on the blunt end of the bar (pitch, gauge & number of drive links)

    I have a large saw that runs a 3/8 H/P sprocket & it'll run any gauge 3/8 H/P chain as long as the bar gauge matches the chain - because the pitch is the only thing that needs to match the sprocket & the gauge needs to match the bar.

    Clear as mud?

  4. #34
    Senior Member seliment's Avatar
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    Default Re: chainsaw tuition on morn pen.

    Quote Originally Posted by kakegc View Post
    There's some good advice on this thread,.......
    - because the pitch is the only thing that needs to match the sprocket & the gauge needs to match the bar.

    Clear as mud?
    This is ONLY true if your bar DOES NOT have sprocket nose.
    It's likely most ppl here are using a bar with a sprocket nose in which case the drive sprocket, nose sprocket and chain ALL have to match in pitch .... Obvious

  5. #35
    Senior Member kakegc's Avatar
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    Default Re: chainsaw tuition on morn pen.

    Humm, now I remember why I stopped posting on these forums! Geez, thanks for editing my post so that it no longer represents what I tried to convey mate!

    Once again; the pitch is the only thing that needs to match the sprocket (as against gauge - if you disagree, I'd like to know why?)

    And once again; the gauge needs to match the bar (once again, if you disagree, I'd like to know why?)

    Whether the sprocket is on a bar, or on the clutch its a sprocket lol! And the sprocket only needs to match the pitch, not the gauge!

    Like you say, obvious lol!

  6. #36
    Member geoff1969's Avatar
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    Default Re: chainsaw tuition on morn pen.

    Quote Originally Posted by geoff View Post
    if thats worst error that you make in this game ..mate you are doing fine...reckon most that have been doing it awhile have made some bigger blues than that..i have lol+
    spot on geoff business and life its self , its all a learning curve that never stops .... i even know blokes who have run them selves over with there own utes ...lol

  7. #37
    Senior Member geoff's Avatar
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    Default Re: chainsaw tuition on morn pen.

    Quote Originally Posted by geoff1969 View Post


    spot on geoff business and life its self , its all a learning curve that never stops .... i even know blokes who have run them selves over with there own utes ...lol
    You would reckon idiots that have their ute run over them should know better , silly old fckerso

  8. #38
    Member Rye Victoria great nature's Avatar
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    Default Re: chainsaw tuition on morn pen.

    My chain came off (and the carby cover) again today on a job. doh, bugger, fcuk! Then I really tightened her up(more so than usual), (chain and nut) and it was awesome. I tightened it so i couldn't move the chain around the bar by hand, but when i started her up the chain spun no probs. I adjusted the tension after i started it back up. It was a joy to use. i think that has been my prob. Thinking the chain has to be able to be moved back and forth by hand after the cover goes back on and the nut is tightened. Cos thats what i remembered seeing the chainsaw instructor at tafe doing.
    And obviously not having the nut on tight enough doesn't help matters.
    Taught this old dog a new trick.

  9. #39
    Member Redeye's Avatar
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    Default Re: chainsaw tuition on morn pen.

    thats not really a good situation rae, the chain definitely needs to turn freely by hand but the nuts should be as tight as you can get them - having the chain that tight will damage the bar, when you adjust the chain you should be holding the bar at the end so it is supporting the weight of the machine while you adjust the chain tension
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tN7X7VvgGBg sorry to repeat what I'm sure you know/learned but I'm super pedantic about chain adjustments, never had an accident, never want to




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  10. #40
    Member Rye Victoria great nature's Avatar
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    Default Re: chainsaw tuition on morn pen.

    Cheers redeye. Just watched the vid. I do push up the bar when tighting the chain. They difference that i did see was that the vid showed that you tension the chain once the side cover is back on. I have been tensioning the chain before i put the cover on. It turns nicely, but once i tighten the nut on the cover, the chain wont budge. Will re-read my owners manual and watch more vids. So i dont wreck my poor chainy any further.

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