Have you tried a spacer under the disc, maybe cut down an old bar blade and use slightly longer bolts
Anything Ian says may or may not be garbage, it may also be his own opinion or it may not be his opinion at all, it may just be something he felt like stating anyone following his advice does so at their own risk and may be doing something Ian would actually advise against.
And if you don't like what Ian has to say use the ignore function if you don't know how ask i will gladly tell you
It needs to come down 15-18mm it already has had the deck ground back for the bar blade and i can't take anymore nexite off plus those are step down blades already fitted and i'm still 15-18mm too high on the lowest setting and the deck is dragging on the ground.I looked at fitting a Rover disc but with the clutch design it can't work.
The twin blade system really doesn't work that great in mulching,at one stage i removed the top blade and it showed no difference in the final finish.
Disc and 4 blades everything changes and it shows a huge difference,which i learnt using the Rover pro cut 560.
At least i got the other HRX running the Rover disc and blades successfully
One thing i'm going to try in running the twin blade system is sharp blades and if it shows a improvement i'll just have a second set to swap out every 2 weeks.
One year on with this HRX twin blade mower,i did state back then it left a great finish which it did while the grass is green and full of moisture.
The downfall was drier grass during the dry season you could see the clippings laying on the surface and having a Victa mulch master and rover procut leaving a much cleaner finish when doing small overlaps.
What i end up with is a twin bar blade HRX for wetter mulching conditions and a HRX 4 blade disc for drier times.the Mulch master is now only being used for slashing and the rover procut for those few wet catcher days.
Thousands of dollars later the outcome is,4 blade disk wins over any bar blade no matter who makes it
Firstly to gain that 15-18mm (I had a similar issue with the Honda motor on a MTD chassis) I had a collet/ spacer machined up out of steel and used a longer bolt. This worked and the extra weight of the collet seemed to have no negative effect on the way the engine ran.
As to 4 blade disc mulching better than bar blade my experience is the opposite but it could be a combination of blade set up and deck.
I've found for mulching lawn in all conditions:
Honda 21"Sp with blade disc = poor finish.
Honda 19" pushmow with blade disc = poor finish.
MTD mulch mower, high dome deck, bar blade = great finish.
MTD mulch mower, high dome deck, DISC blade = average but acceptable finish.
Masport mulcher SP, cast high dome deck, bar blade = great finish.
Toro recycler mulcher, shallow square edge deck, bar blade = shocking finish.
Cox cruiser ZTR, shallow deck, disc blade = average finish, highly dependent on grass moisture.
Hustler ZTR, deep deck, bar blade = great finish in most conditions.
My thoughts are that there's no silver bullet mower that will mulch and catch.
I feel the disc blade combination doesn't allow the grass to fall in the centre, but pushes it out to the edges of the under deck creating the build up or clumping of grass, if that makes any sense.
collet/ spacer
I'm sure i'd be able to organize a collet/ spacer GS..
I had a look on some google pictures re- these discs,the one the shop gave me is different to this other one.
Did they sell me the wrong disc as it hasn't got the locating pins,i'm asking as i'm not up to speed with the changes made in the HRU clutch range.Unless fitting the HRU disc onto a HRX clutch is a totally different clutch design
Hi I was chasing a replacement mower and came across a 2nd hand HRX217. The bloke wanted $370 for it which i thought was a good price but I talked him down to $320. I did not notice in the pics but he had swapped out the motor to a Buffalo 197 - the commercial motor - What a bonus. The back wheels were shot and there was no catcher, but I have spares at home anyway.
I don't know what he was thinking though as he had changed the throttle level and gear selector. Was crapping on about water getting into the throttle cable, so he changed it. Now the gear lever has no stop points when your engage it it moves all the way forward, and goes to max speed when you engage the lever. I have propped it with a bit of wire, so it only has one speed. Am debating whether I will put it back the way it should be.
If you are wanting to re-fit a original engine (GCV) as far as i know there ain't none in Australia,and as quoted $825 incl import fee.
Or you go to a GSV for $470 and gain 1hp.But you'll need to check if all the linkages will work with the GSV.
Are you going to use this mower as you daily machine ?.If so make it reliable.
Anything Ian says may or may not be garbage, it may also be his own opinion or it may not be his opinion at all, it may just be something he felt like stating anyone following his advice does so at their own risk and may be doing something Ian would actually advise against.
And if you don't like what Ian has to say use the ignore function if you don't know how ask i will gladly tell you
I bought a new HRX clutch cover got it machined down on the clutch side to a flat surface which gave me 15mm spacer.Had the two thread holes drilled out so new longer bolts can go through to the original clutch cover.As the M2 clutch has disc centering tubes at the bolt holes and i didn't,i welded the disc to the spacer after making sure it spun dead center for any run out/wobble.
Now if i want to change blades two bolts get undone and get re-fitted without issue.
Also step down blades were used
All up done within $100.
Thanks to Gardening Solutions getting the idea across to me..
If it was a motor without the clutch like the other one it would have been much easier/simpler.
Currently running 2 HRX's and 2 HRU's,went back to Honda for mulching.Only reason for the HRU216 as they will cut lower having better height adjustment.