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Thread: Turf Varieties Lawn Care

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    Default Turf Varieties Lawn Care

    Ref J&B Buffalo Turf Supplies NSW

    .http://www.buffaloturfsupplies.com.au

    HAVE A LOOK AT THIS SITE SOME REALLY GOOD INFO


    Heres some turf lawn products below which one out in the market place have you cut and your thoughts on thses products .

    Kings Pride Buffalo
    Will outperform or match any other buffalo turf...

    Who said Buffalo Turf couldn't get better? It just has with the new King's Pride Buffalo! With its great winter colour and excellent shade tolerance, Kings Pride is leaps and bounds ahead of the rest. It recovers quickly from wear and tear and is a low thatching, soft leaf buffalo with low water usuge - ideal for domestic and commercial lawns.

    Austine Buffalo (ST26)
    New Austine Buffalo is slightly coarser than a dwarf leaf variety, but it is very soft. Austine Buffalo is very hard wearing and retains its colour well in the winter. Ideal for all Aussie conditions, this Buffalo variety makes a great front or back lawn. Austine is shade tolerant and recovers well from wear, thus making this type of turf a great all-purpose lawn with incredible colour.

    For an assessment by Richmond TAFE/NSW Agriculture of 18 common varieties of turf with a view to greenness and dormancy mid-winter and the effect of frost, . Note that ST26 was found to be "The Best Buffalo at this stage".

    Sapphire Buffalo
    Sapphire Soft-Leaf Buffalo has performance as good as any other buffalo, with the added benefit of fine texture. It grows quickly across the ground, providing quick recovery from wear. It has excellent winter colour, and has a deep root system. It will tolerate 40-70% shade.

    Sapphire is fine textured, but does not depend on fine leaves for its fine texture, but its folding leaf. Unlike other fine-leaved buffalo grasses, it does not have thatch problems, shallow roots or poor wear characteristics. It is not slow growing.

    ST85 Buffalo is another fine-leafed dwarf variety, but not quite as fine as the ST91. Once established, it is hard wearing and is a low maintenance lawn. ST85 thrives in full sun but is also one of the most shade tolerant buffalos on the market. In fact, this turf variety can survive if only in the sun for 20% of the day! ST85 is a tightly knitted, great all-purpose lawn.



    Soft Leaf Shade Master Buffalo
    Soft Leaf Shade Master is a hardy lawn that handles high traffic areas. It grows well in sunny areas and because of its broad soft leaf it can tolerate areas of 60%-80% shade. Shade Master has a thick ground cover which helps prevent the growth of unwanted weeds.


    Winter Green Couch
    Winter Green Couch is a fine-leafed lawn similar to Greenlees Park, with the main difference being Winter Green handles frost a little better. This turf is most suited to sunny areas and can also handle a position with 10%-20% shade. It can tolerate wear and tear well and is also quite disease resistant. Winter Green Couch is a very deep green colour.


    Santa Ana Couch
    Santa Ana Couch is the finest of our couch varieties and makes a great disease resistant lawn. Suited to sunny locations or areas with 10%-20% shade throughout the day and best used in high traffic areas such as sporting grounds. Santa Ana is a lighter shade of green compared to the other varieties.

    Greenlees Park Couch
    Greenlees Park Couch is a fine-leafed dwarf variety of lawn which grows well in dry, sunny to lightly shaded areas. Greenlees Park Couch can be mowed with any mower but best results are achieved when a cylinder mower is used. This turf has a dark green colour and retains this colour well during winter, but will be affected by the frost.

    Kikuyu
    Kikuyu is a good, hardy, low maintenance lawn, it grows vigorously in the summer months therefore this variety of turf recovers well from wear and tear. Most suitable for high traffic areas. Kikuyu has best results in full sun and does not grow well in the shade

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    Default Re: Turf Varieties Lawn Care

    FACT

    "A well maintained landscape with mature trees AND LUSH LAWNS can increase property values up to
    25 percent.
    Trees AND LAWNS can cool houses in the summer. A city lot with 30 percent plant cover
    provides the equivalent cooling necessary to air condition two moderately sized
    houses 12 hours a day in the summer."

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    Exclamation Re: Turf Varieties Lawn Care

    Fertilising Turf is a very important part of the equasion , have a look and see if your turf has developed a good root base ,make sure you ferterlise well every couple of weeks until the lawn is well established .
    Dont put buckets of fertiliser on all at once it will only cause damage to the turf .

    Fertiliser should be spread at a rate of no more than 2kg (a standard 2 litre ice cream container) per 100m² per application.

    With Sir Walter when it loses its colour and or vitality then you can add some fertiliser not b4 .

    More frequent mowing allows for only one third of the leaf to be removed, which helps the grass to retain the majority of water and nutrients stored in its leaves, and enabling the turf to survive quite happily on just one ot two waterings per week.

    Scalping a lawn well guarantee that the stems are exposed to direct sunlight and heat stress so cut your customers lawn high .
    When stems are exposed,new ones grow ro to protect the damaged one.This type of mowing method can cause major thatching .

    Allowing the leaf to remain longer also promotes a deeper stronger root system.

    Lawnmowing contractors should try to educate their client and also warn the client if they have requested their lawn to be cut as low as possible their grass shall surely die lol .
    Last edited by administrator; 26-11-2008 at 03:57 PM.

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    Thumbs up Re: Turf Varieties Lawn Care

    WINTER GRASSES

    The observant lawn contractor will no doubt notice these soft green tufts or clumped weeks in many lawns at this time of year.

    Some clients will be asking their contractors to spray the winter grass. Other contractors should be recommending to their clients that the winter grass be sprayed. They may ask why? Well the reason for controlling winter grass is simple, it is a prolific seeder and will eventually overtake the lawn in winter and then seed and die off in spring leaving a weakened lawn that will only be infected with more w inter grass next winter.

    As a week of turf, winter grass can be found in all situations from home lawns and turf farms to the more intensively managed fine turf of golf and bowling greens. Winter grass is widespread throughout Australia and is a significant weed problem in many situations. Winter grass will set seed even in very low cutting heights.

    Control & Management

    The key to controlling winter grass lies in it's management using both chemical and cultural practices. Good cultural practices means keeping the lawn well maintained by regular mowing and fertilizing and not allowing bare patches to develop which will offer an ideal seed bed for winter grass germination.

    Light infestations may be easily hand weeded as winter grass has a very shallow root system.

    Chemical Management

    There are two main ways of approaching the management of winter grass with chemicals... pre emergent or selective post emergent.

    Pre emergent control means spraying the lawn before the weeds have germinated. This is probably not the best way to go for the contractor as application of these chemicals is critical to achieve results and the chemicals are expensive. Post emergent spraying is the way to go, but you must spray before seed heads form. These chemicals are also more affordable for both clients and contractors.

    Chemicals & Application

    Pre Emergent

    There are probably more pre emergent chemicals around than I will mention here but these are the ones I have had success with.

    KERB - active constituent PROPYZAMIDE, registered for use in QLD, NSW, VIC, SA, WA

    Rates:

    Common Cough: 12 grams/100m2

    Buffalo Grass: 12 grams/100m2

    QLD Blue Cough 6 grams/100m2

    Apply during Autumn and Winter. Best results are obtained when application is made to cool, wet soil. Use only on established turf. Sufficient water should be used to ensure uniform coverage.

    Irrigate immediately following application with equivalent of 12mm rainfall, and repeat after 24 hours.

    Do not re-sow for 60 days after treatment. Do not use on bent grass, blue grass, rye grass or fescue.

    Kerb is an excellent pre emergent control. It comes in 1.36kg boxes it is a dry powder so must be weighed out correctly and the before and after watering must be carried out. This makes it a difficult job.

    EXPORSAN - active constituent Bensulide registered for use in all states. Rates are 300mls - in 150-200 litres of water per 100m2. For use on bent grass and QLD blue couch. Apply to bent grass in Jan/Feb water in immediately after application. Do not re-seed with desirable grasses with 4 months of treatment.

    Post Emergent

    Probably the most common and readily available. Post emergent herbicide is Endothal or Poa check active constituent - Endothal rates are 15ml in 5 to 10 litres of water per 100m2. Registered for use in all states. Apply when winter grass is becoming evident. Otherwise, apply 2-3 sprays spaced 10-14 days apart in late winter to early spring. It is important to spray before seed heads form as new germinations will have to be re-treated.

    Endothal comes in 2 liters but smaller amounts are usually available from hardware stores or nurseries. This is the easiest and cheapest form of control for contractors to use.

    It is important that when spraying any of these chemicals, that you following the rates on the labels and apply them evenly over the lawn. Investing in some good quality spray equipment is money well spent.

    There are some combination controls for winter grass. These are fertiliser and chemical combinations. The one for winter grass is SCOTTS PRE M. These however need to be applied regularly for good results. PRE M will also control summer grass. Rates are around 2.2kg per 100m2. It comes in 22.7kg bags and is probably not the most cost effective control for lawn mowing contractors to use.

    At the start of this article I have used the botanical name for winter grass being Poa Annua it is not a bad idea for contractors to become familiar with some botanical names as common names may differ from area to area and state to state.


    Author Mark Paisley Member ILCOA
    MARK HAS WRITTEN MANY ARTICLES FOR MAGAZINES AND IS A ILCOA FORUM MEMBER .

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    Default Re: Turf Varieties Lawn Care

    Top Dressing Lawns

    For a long time many people have topdressed their lawns each year thinking they were doing the right thing when actually, all of this hard work and money was really not necessary. Don't get me wrong, all lawns at one stage or another will benefit from being topdressed, especially if this job is done correctly and at the right time of year.


    Why Topdress?

    The main reason for topdressing is to level the lawn or build it up to the desired level. Topdressing fills holes or low spots and encourages the grass to spread by giving it a medium to grow in.

    Tools

    Successful topdressing requires a few tools and some suitable soil. A good wheelbarrow with an inflatable tyre will make wheeling the soil easier. For shoveling and spreading the soil, an aluminium shovel is priceless. A small level-lawn is also a worthwhile investment for leveling and rubbing the soil in.

    Soil selection is up to you but it is best to use a soil that is consistent with the soil that the lawn is growing in. This is usually sandy type loam. I prefer use a clean sandy loam rather than some of the lawn topdressing mixes available today which may claim to contain organic matter and fertiliser. My reasons for this are that a clean soil is easier to work with, resulting in a better looking finished job and you can make more money by fertilizing your client's lawns at a later date. It is up to you as a professional lawn contractors to determine the required amount of soil that is needed to complete the job.

    Preparation

    Before you actually spread the soil, make sure the grass is actively growing. Don't top dress dormant grass. You will damage it, if not kill it. A good idea is to give the lawn a fertilize a couple of weeks before topdressing, this will help the grass push through the soil quickly. Also, mow the lawn the day before you do the job. Long grass takes more soil to cover properly and the thicker the soil layer, the harder it is for the grass to emerge.

    Doing the Job

    Alright, you've fertilized, you've cut the lawn, purchased the soil and you are ready to go, but it looks like rain! DON'T DO IT! Why? Besides making a big mess, wet soil does not rub in well and can sometimes dry like a hard crust on top of the grass, making it very difficult for the grass to grow through.

    Okay, now the sun is out, lets get into it. Start by spreading an even layer of soil over the lawn covering the entire area. I've seen many people topdress their lawns but only covering it roughly. If you are going to the trouble, at least make sure you do it right.

    Once the lawn is completely covered, don't rush in to level it off, give it a couple of hours to dry first. This will allow you to rub in the soil more effectively and you will be able to fill up holes rather than smoothing wet soil over the top. This couple of hours will allow you to go and mow another lawn or work out what to do with any soil you have left over.

    Once the soil is dry, start to rub it in with the level-lawn. This can be done in any direction, just as long as you go over the whole lawn. Pick up any excess with a shovel and make sure the job is as neat as possible. Leave the site clean and tidy. Sweep up any soil off paths and drives as clients really appreciate it and it makes you look more professional. Don't water the lawns for a couple of days. This will let the grass punch through the soil.

    Well, that's it! Topdressing, another add on service that can be very profitable if done correctly and at the right time of year.

    AUTHOR MARK PAISLEY
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    Post Re: Turf Varieties Lawn Care

    Chemical Application Lawn Care

    When spraying chemicals it is important that the chemical being sprayed reaches its target. This may be a weed or an army grub. Even coverage over the entire area being sprayed is required to successfully complete the job.

    Lawn contractors are mostly spraying weeds or insects, rarely are contractors asked to spray for diseases with fungicides. Weed spraying is relatively straight forward. Even coverage of average lawns is achievable with a knapsack sprayer with a small boom attachment or an Aussieboy sprayer. Small 5 litre pressures sprayers are not the way to go. You usually end up missing half the weeds. These sprayers are fine for applying total weed killers like Zero and Roundup around paths, fences and spot spraying stubborn weeds.

    5 litre sprayers are fine for spraying weedicide. However, when targeting black beetles or army grubs, I use my Fert-O-matic garden spray on the hose. This gives very even coverage and washes the chemical into the soil where the pests are.

    When applying any chemicals, make sure you read the labels and only apply them at the recommended rates.

    Safety

    When mixing chemicals, I always wear a pair of surgical gloves. They are cheap and are available from most supermarkets. I only wear them once then throw them out. Plastic or white plastic type disposable overalls should be worn when spraying insecticides with waterproof boots and an appropriate respirator. You don't have to spend a fortune on a respirator, I use Moldex 2700 P2 fume dust and mist respirators. They come in a box of 10 for around $100.00 and I use one for around 2 months, that's using it a couple of times per week. Keep the respirator in a glad snap lock type plastic bag when not in use.

    Avoid spraying on really windy days. If you do come into contact with any chemicals wash them off immediately. What can happen with chemicals is that small amounts of exposure won't hurt you straight away but they build up in your system and eventually you do become sick. I've heard of some terrible stories of chemical poisoning even from Roundup which most people think is relatively safe.

    When mixing chemicals I use a small medicine glass to accurately measure the amounts. It is also a good idea to keep any containers or bottles of poison locked up in a toolbox so they are away from children and so they don't get spilt or broken in your trailer or ute.

    There you go, its pretty easy when you are confident with your gear and know the chemicals you are using. A good idea is to practice using just water in your sprayers to get used to them and how they work. For anyone interested in more formal training, most Technical Colleges offer courses such as Smartrain Chemical Program which is a nationally recognised chemical training course.



    Lawn Contractors who are asked to fertilize or treat a lawn for weeds or certain pests need to be able to apply the product they are using in a professional, efficient and most of all in a safe manner.

    To most contractors time is money. It is no good taking 1/2 an hour to fertilize a lawn that should only take 10 minutes with the right equipment. Purchasing the right tools to do these jobs is money well spent. Investing in good equipment, from mowers down to pruning tools will last you for years and are reliable.




    Spraying and fertilizing is a great add on service to any lawn run and good money can be made. You need to be confident that you can do the job and get results. Its no good spraying a lawn for weeds and getting no result or doing the same job and killing the lawn. If you don't feet comfortable about doing these sorts of jobs it is best to turn the job down rather than lose a client over a mistake you've made with fertilisers or chemicals.

    Fertiliser Application Lawn Care

    Fertilisers are applied to lawns in either dry granular, pelleted form or liquid - i.e. soluble

    Dry Granular or Pelleted

    The best way to apply these fertilizers is by using a purpose made fertiliser spreader. These can be hand held rotary, larger push type rotary or push type drop spreaders. I find the small hand held rotary spreader the most useful for anyone doing average sized lawns. A push type rotary is the quickest way to go for large lawns. Drop spreaders are good but you have to be careful not to miss strips or overlap too much. A rotary spreader will do the job much faster than a drop spreader and it is easier to get an even coverage with a rotary .

    These machines will apply fertilisers like No-17, lawn builder, Dynamic lifter and others with ease. One tip, after you have finished use a blower to blow any fertilizer off paths and driveways.

    Liquid -Soluble

    Properly equipped, the average contractor can apply liquid fertiliser as quickly as dry granular. This method is for applying things such as Sulphate of Ammonia, Urea, Nitram, Sulphate of Iron, Sulphate of Potash and many others.



    Fertilisers need to be applied evenly over lawns so 5 litre pressure sprayers are not really adequate, plus their nozzles will block up making it a very frustrating job. I use two things, a plastic bucket and a Fert-O-Matic garden spray. Some people might know these as big boy sprayers. These simple little sprayers connect to your hose. The fertilizer is mixed up in the bucket with water and a tube coming from the sprayer goes into the bucket. When the hose is turned on a suction forms and sucks the mixture in the bucket up and out through the sprayer. It is very simple and effective. Once you get used to using one of these sprayers you can gauge how much water to put in the bucket to get you over the area to be sprayed. Larger lawns will require more than one bucket so make sure you divide the fertiliser up correctly.

    The sprayer I use is made by Precision Mowers Pty ltd, Essendon VIC 3040. Some produce stores stock them. The instructions are on the packet. If anyone has trouble locating them, contact me on telephone, 02 4962-1582 and I will help you out.

    Fertilisers are not as dangerous as chemicals however, avoid breathing in any dusts and exposure to skin. Don't scoop fertilisers out with your hands, use a plastic scoop or jug and gloves are a must when applying them. Remember also, to make sure you or the client waters the lawn thoroughly and immediately after any fertiliser has been applied. This is to wash the fertilizer off the grass leaves so it will not burn.

    Always read the labels on bags and apply the recommended rates. Don't over do it. Three or four applications spread over the growing season is adequate for a lawn that is regularly cut during the summer months.

    Make an early application to kick-start the growth, two more spaced over the warmest months and one more before the grass goes dormant is sufficient.





    Presented by Mark Paisley

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    Last edited by administrator; 26-11-2008 at 04:43 PM.

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    Default Re: Turf Varieties Lawn Care

    SOUTH AUSTRALIA



    Under current laws in South Australia a licence is needed to spray pesticides, however under the current law there is an exemption. Contractors usually have to apply for exemption but after considerably lengthy phone conversations by ILCOA with Robert Taylor, of department of Human Services they are looking into having the law changed to excluding commercial applicators of low toxicity herbicides such as glyphosate from hand held equipment from the licensing provisions, as is the case in some other States.

    The following is an extract from an email to ILCOA from Robert Taylor:

    “Notwithstanding the current licensing provisions regarding exemptions, DHS has no intention of taking regulatory action against such users, as these people are not included amongst the group of commercial users over whom the Regulations were intended to provide controls.

    As for those members who wish to provide a weed control service on a larger scale, they should be advised to contact the Pest Control Unit to obtain the
    necessary details, as it is probable that they will be required to complete the relevant TAFE course and be appropriately licensed.”

    See below link for other states http://www.indmowing.com.au/html/laws_for_spraying.htm
    Last edited by administrator; 23-06-2009 at 08:41 AM.

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    Default Re: Turf Varieties Lawn Care

    Fantastic stuff Mark got any more

    Also Mark do you know anything about the new top dressing product its crushed concrete mixed with another product for top dressing your lawn works out about 2 thirds cheaper and supposedly does a cracking job .
    Last edited by administrator; 23-06-2009 at 09:15 AM.

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    Default Re: Turf Varieties Lawn Care

    Quote Originally Posted by administrator
    Fantastic stuff Mark got any more

    Also Mark do you know anything about the new top dressing product its crushed concrete mixed with another product for top dressing your lawn works out about 2 thirds cheaper and supposedly does a cracking job .

    Crushed Concrete.?? I would not go near that..Likley to send the P.H off the scale with Lime and other unknown chemicals.. There is a fine crushed glass (almost powder) I have seen used in sports turf with top dress.. Seems to work well...

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    Default Re: Turf Varieties Lawn Care

    In regard to topdressing lawns, people mistakenly topdress the whole lawn rather than filling in the dips and hollows only. So best to look for areas that might get a bit of scalping and fill in the lumps and bumps nearby.

    Springtime is best for this sort of work as it grows through quickly.

    Now, undoubtedly, the best topdressing material for this is washed river sand. All grass/turf runners will grow through this without a problem - unlike standard topdressing soil that goes rock hard in the heat.

    That's my 2 bobs worth.

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    Default Re: Turf Varieties Lawn Care

    2 bobs worth alot these days

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    Default Re: Turf Varieties Lawn Care

    Thanks Gerry.

    I've enjoyed your "Five secrets to a great looking lawn" also monthly lawns tips for the last year.

    Great to have you on INDI.
    David
    Mr Sparkle Car Spa

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    Default Re: Turf Varieties Lawn Care

    Quote Originally Posted by glassngrass
    Thanks Gerry.

    I've enjoyed your "Five secrets to a great looking lawn" also monthly lawns tips for the last year.

    Great to have you on INDI.
    David, Thanks for the compliment!

    I wish you were in Sydney then we could refer work to each other. You could send the Weed & Feed Lawn Care stuff to us, and we could send the Lawn Mowing & Gardening referrals to you - this usually works well with others we deal with.

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    Default Re: Turf Varieties Lawn Care

    Crushed concrete..... better known as crusher dust..... mixed with a quality top dressing is far cheaper than river sand and mixed correctly will fertilise the grass as well as filling the holes.

    I have used this regularly and have had zero problems!

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    Default Re: Turf Varieties Lawn Care

    We just use washed sand, it's cheap, easy to get.It is also good to use after you have aerated if you are having a drainage problem in your lawn.

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